NOTE FOR WOMEN

Alina Gizatullina, a specialist who popularizes the fashionable science of “bra fitting” (eng. bra fitting) advises how to choose the right bra:

Do you think that the bra is a tool to torture women? Are you in a hurry to throw it off as soon as you get home? Do you think that comfortable bras simply don’t exist? Then read on - in this article we will talk about how to solve problems with bras once and for all.

The general principle here is this: if you feel discomfort and pain when wearing underwear, no matter what size and shape your breasts are, then your bra is chosen incorrectly. The problem is either (most often) size, shape, model, or a combination of all or part of the above.

In this post, we will look at the 7 main causes of women's suffering and find ways to solve them.

Problem #1: Your straps keep falling off.

What are you doing: you tighten the straps more, getting red stripes on your shoulders and pain in your back and neck.

Things to do: reduce the size of the belt and increase the cup - for example, if you currently wear 75 C, then you should try 70 D. The cup size there will be the same, but the fit may become noticeably better.

Why this will help: Falling straps in most cases are not a consequence of narrow shoulders - but the culprit is that the volume of the belt is too large for you. A thicker belt will hold the bra in place better and the straps will no longer fall off.

Belt tightness test: While standing with your bra fastened, try sliding the straps over your shoulders. If the breasts have “fallen” down, then the size of the bra band is chosen incorrectly.

Problem #2: You have to adjust your bra throughout the day and your breasts are falling out from underneath.

What are you doing: Cursing, you put it back in place

Things to do: if your breasts fall out from below, and you have to constantly “pull” them into your bra, then the reason is that the cup is too small for you - even if in the absence of movement everything looks normal. Most likely, the belt does not fit tightly enough - therefore, it is worth testing the fit of the belt. Therefore, as a starting solution, try going up one cup size (for example, if you wear a 75 C, then take a 75 D). If your bra does not pass the belt test (below), then instead of 75 C, use 70 E).

Why this will help: a larger cup is able to accommodate a larger volume of breast mass, locking it in place.

Cup volume test: Standing with your bra fastened, raise your arms up. If a piece of breast appears from under the bone, then the cup is too small for you and needs to be enlarged.

Belt volume test number 1: Having put on your bra in the morning, draw a line on the back along the bottom border of the belt with a long-lasting pencil for the eyes, eyebrows or lips. After walking in your bra all day, use the level of the morning mark to answer the question, has the belt moved up your back? If yes, then the volume of the belt is chosen incorrectly.

Belt volume test number 2: With your bra fastened as tightly as possible, pull the belt back with your hand. How far does it extend from the plane of the back? If it is more than 4 cm, then the volume of your belt is probably too large.

Problem No. 3: the belt rides up and creeps up the back - as a result, the chest “falls” down

What are you doing: you tighten the straps harder, trying to keep your breasts in place.

Things to do: seven troubles - one answer, you should reconsider your approach to choosing a bra size.

If the belt rides up, and the chest, like on a swing, falls down, this means only one thing - the volume of the belt is too large for you, but the volume of the cup is not enough. Therefore, if in this situation you wear 75 C, then you need to go to 70 D at least, and maybe more, until the belt fits tightly to your back. One girl with such a problem came to me for bra fitting at 80 C, and left at 75 GG, very pleased with herself. And don’t think that in a smaller volume you will suffocate - the volume of the belt will be compensated for by a larger cup.

Why does it work like this: It is the belt that should hold the chest, not the straps - you should receive up to 90% of the support from the belt. If the belt does not fit tightly, then it will not be able to support you - and your chest will “fall” under the influence of its own gravity, but your shoulders and back will languish from heavy loads.

Belt volume test 3: evaluate the position of the belt at the back after a day in the bra. Where is it planted? If it is closer to the shoulder blades than to the waist, then the volume of the belt is chosen incorrectly. Is the waist line parallel to the floor? If not, and the belt bends in an arc, then the volume of the belt is chosen incorrectly.

Problem #4: You notice that your breasts are splitting into pieces and are popping out of the cup - “4 breasts” are clearly visible under the thin jersey.

What are you doing: you try to ignore this fact and adjust your bra.

Things to do: increase your bra cup size. For example, if you have such a thing in size 75 C, take 75 D to try on.

Why it works: Imagine that you take a glass filled to the brim with water. Try to pour more water into it - and it will overflow, flooding your hands. Breasts that have come out of the bra require a larger “vessel” - then they will not come out.

Cup volume test: try leaning down in your bra and making a couple of figure eights with your breasts. Breasts came out of the cup and now need to be tucked back in? Same thing. This means that the volume of the cup is small for you.

Problem number 5: you are irritated by the underwires in your bra, because some kind of problem is constantly happening to them: either they rub on your side, then they come out and prick you in the chest, or they break. You dream of a bralette that fits you - no matter your size.

What are you doing: sew the underwires back into the “holster,” adjust your bra throughout the day, or don’t wear a bra at all.

Things to do: If the bones rub, break or come out, then this is a sign that their size is not suitable for you - so you need to choose a different size by increasing the cup. For example, if you wear 75 C, then you should choose 70 D or 70 E - the underwires will be wider there, and therefore the load on them will be reduced. It also happens, of course, that the problem lies in the bra model itself - for example, the underwires are too high for you, and therefore prick your armpit. Seek the help of a professional when choosing a bra, because figuring out the configuration of the wires is not so easy.

Why it works: changing your bra size will change the configuration of the wires (their shape, length and width), and if you choose the right size, this will give you comfort and relief.

Bone size test: you will need a soft eyeliner or lipliner. Standing without a bra, lean forward and let your breasts hang down. Outline the entire volume of your chest along the inframammary fold, all the way to the end - assuming that everything that hangs down is the chest. The result should be semi-arches that are shaped like underwires in a bra. Now compare the volume and shape of the underwires in your bra: if the underwires of the bra are smaller in circumference than your drawn ones, then the cup size is chosen incorrectly - you need the underwire to sit behind the breast, ringing the entire breast mass from the sides. If the bone is on your chest, then it is not surprising that you feel pain and discomfort: it rubs the delicate breast tissue.

Problem #6: You associate the very concept of a bra with pain. It hurts to wear it, and your chest hurts after you take it off. You try to avoid wearing a bra altogether. You do not have mastopathy and do not have constant PMS, but your chest hurts. Also, your shoulders and back ache, and you save yourself with massage sessions. I often have a headache. Your hands go numb and you can’t feel your fingers. My head is spinning and the picture is blurry.

What are you doing: Syndromes of a terrible disease? No, just an incorrectly chosen bra - but this “trifle” causes health problems for you.

Things to do: you do nothing, not realizing that the problem is in the bra. You can attribute fatigue and poor health to the weather, heredity, stress, and so on - in short, anything is to blame, but not this unfortunate bra.

Why it works: seek the help of a professional. An incorrectly chosen bra is so dangerous because it pinches the nerves of your shoulder, compresses the breast mass, and promotes stagnation of lymph (and this, in turn, provokes breast cancer). Therefore, every woman needs to choose the right bra for herself - not even in the name of aesthetics, but in the name of health.

Test for the comfort of your bra: Think about it, how many times a day do you think about your bra? How often do you have to adjust a strap that has fallen off or straighten your bra over your body? If your bra is chosen correctly, then you just put it on in the morning and forget about it. You no longer think about it or feel it. If you have to think about your bra and adjust it, or feel discomfort throughout the day, then the bra is not right for you. Dot.

Problem #7: Breasts live a separate life from you. You feel its movement during the slightest physical activity - walking, bending, not to mention running. You feel uncomfortable and embarrassed that your breasts are swaying so much.

What are you doing: You may even refuse to play sports for this reason. And yes - you feel pain after physical activity or sports. Having breasts “reflects” on your quality of life.

Things to do: most likely, nothing - according to research, about half of women ignore pain during physical activity. You may be thinking about reduction. Or simply avoid any activity, including sports.

Why it works: Find a good bra in the right size that will support you. You can choose a sports bra or a casual bra if you don't exercise - either way, if sized correctly, it will give you the right amount of support.

modern science has come up with a lot of ways to dampen breast vibrations so that women feel comfortable - this is the shape and cut of the cups, the design of the model, and low-elastic materials. If you combine the fruits of innovation with the skill of selecting underwear, then any woman can get a wonderful bra with which she can go anywhere.

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To create a bra cup pattern we will use

Rice. 1. Bra pattern: modeling Bottom line of the bra band.

Place 1 cm down from the line under the chest. Draw a horizontal line.

Bra front strap. From the right side of the chest dart, set aside 2 cm to the right (the width of the strap can be increased to 3 cm). Using the pattern, connect points 2 and 1 (armhole).

Measure the distance from point A to A1 and put it on the right side of the dart: AA1 = AA2.

Set aside about 7.5-8 cm along the seam line of the cup connection. Using the pattern, draw the left side of the front bra strap.

Cut the lower left part of the bra cup, setting aside 4 cm as shown in the drawing, and glue along the lines. Shorten the bra back pattern along the middle seam by 1.5-2 cm for fastening.

On the back pattern, draw the bra back strap and back details.

Cut out the parts of the cup and glue them in pairs: blue with blue, red with red, gray with gray.

Bra pattern: cut details

Details of the bra cut are shown in Fig. 2.

Rice. 2. Bra pattern: cut details

Bra pattern: cutting

From the main fabric, cut out:

1. Top of the bra cup – 4 parts
2. Bottom of bra cup – 4 parts
3. Bra front belt – 1 piece
4. Bra back belt – 2 parts
5. Strap – 4 parts

Additionally, you need to buy: 2 elastic straps with adjustable length, elastic for stitching along the edges of the bra belt.

Pad or thermal fabric for the bra cups, 2 wires, hooks and loops for fastening along the back.

How to sew a bra

Pay attention to the models in the photo - the top of the bra cup is cut from elastic lace, there are also lace inserts on the bra belt. If you decide to sew just this version of the bra, you do not need to reinforce the top of the cup with thermal fabric.

Duplicate the outer parts of the straps with thermal fabric. Baste the straps with the upper parts of the cups (duplicated and not duplicated with thermal fabric, fold them face to face (the upper part of the cup should be located between the parts of the straps, stitch. Continue the stitching, completely stitching the straps along the long sides. Turn the straps inside out, sweep cleanly.

The lower parts of the cups, duplicated with thermal fabric and not duplicated with thermal fabric, are combined with the upper parts of the cups and straps, stitched with one line.

Tuck the bra band and stitch along the top short jumper between the cups, the top and bottom sides. Baste the cups with a belt and stitch. Fold the cup allowances to a width of 0.7 cm (if necessary, cut off excess fabric along the allowance) and stitch onto the waistband (you should get a drawstring for the bone). Insert a bone into the drawstring and sew up the insertion holes with a narrow zig-zag seam.

Turn the bottom of the bra band and stitch. Sew flat transparent elastic along the top and bottom of the waistband using a zig-zag stitch.

Sew ready-made elastic straps with length adjustment to the straps. The straps are also attached to the belt along the back of the bra. Sew a fastener along the back of the belt (hooks and loops on the tape). Your bra is ready! Wear it with pleasure!

Constructing a drawing of a pattern for the lower part of the bra. On the left side of the sheet of paper, draw a vertical line, on which 1/4 of the measurements of the half-circumference of the chest are laid down and points G, A are placed (48: 4 = 12 cm). Horizontal lines are drawn through points G and A to the right (Fig. 4, a). The resulting segments are divided in half, perpendiculars are drawn from the division points, on which 1 cm are laid. The resulting points are connected by smooth lines to the points Г₄, Г₇, Г₅, Г₆. The upper section of the bra can be trimmed with braid. To sew in the cups, cut out oblique strips 2.5 - 3 cm wide and 28 - 32 cm long. Sewing. The front sections of the bra are sewn down and the seams are ironed. On the front side, the seam is stretched 1 - 2 mm from the stitching line. The top parts are basted with the interlining, the lining parts are basted separately. Instead of a gasket, you can insert a thin layer of foam rubber. The middle sections of the cups are ground down, the lining on the seam side is trimmed down to the machine stitch, and the seams are pressed. The parts of the top cup and lining are folded inside out and swept away. Then the lower part of the cup is sewn in an oblique direction using a machine. The finished cup is sewn into the lower part of the bra. The seam is ironed on both sides, trimmed a little, then the seam sections are covered with an oblique strip, which is adjusted 1 mm from the edge. The finished width of the strip is 1 - 1.5 cm. Already processed loops are basted to the right side of the bra clasp from the front side, then the bar under the loops is placed with the front side on the front side of the bra, all the parts are swept along the line of the clasp and ground down by machine. Then the bar is folded to the wrong side, swept out and stitched. The left side of the fastener is treated in the same way (only without loops). Then the treated straps are basted, parts of the bias strip are ground off and the upper section of the bra is processed. The lower section of the bra can be folded and hemmed with the same fabric or treated with a split strip of fabric or braid.

It can be called a modern symbol of elegance and true femininity. It emphasizes the natural beauty and shape of the breast, allowing its owner to feel more confident and desirable. This is exactly the kind of bodice that every lady should have in her wardrobe.

If you haven’t had time to buy yourself a similar new thing yet, or you still can’t choose among all the variety the model that is ideal for your bust, we suggest sewing a lace bra with your own hands.

The advantages of such a “creation”

1. if you sew lace lingerie yourself, you will be able to take into account all the features of your figure, which means the finished bra will fit you just perfectly;
2. you can choose a really good lace yourself to create a sconce;
3. The only limitation for you is your own imagination, so you can sew a similar model, as in collections from world-famous brands, or create a completely new model, which will have no analogues.

What we need:

• 1 sheet of paper or cardboard (for cutting out patterns from it);
• 2 good quality lace. The width of the lace should be approximately 15-18 cm. To cut out two cups, a piece of openwork 40-45 cm long is enough;
• 3 flat elastic band, which matches the color of the openwork. A two-meter elastic band will be quite enough;
• 4 threads in the color of lace and a needle;
• 5 pins;
• 6 good scissors;
• 7 adjuster for straps with a hook (can be purchased in special stores, where lace is purchased;
• 8 piece of chalk or soap.

How to sew a lace bra? Algorithm:

- find a pattern for a lace bodice on the Internet and print it or redraw it on a sheet of cardboard or paper;
- cut out both shapes carefully with scissors;

— place both patterns on the openwork tape so that their straight lines coincide with the edge of the pattern on the lace. Make sure that the edges of the pattern do not extend beyond the upper edges of the waves on the guipure;
- secure the patterns to the lace with pins and trace along the outline with chalk or a piece of soap;

- remove the patterns and cut out parts of the cups along the drawn contour;
— we repeat the procedure for the other cup, only we fix the patterns on the openwork with the other side so that the cups turn out to be a mirror image of each other;

- fasten the halves together with pins so that the wavy edge is on the side;
- very carefully sew the halves together using thread and needle. The stitches need to be done quite densely so that there are no holes in the finished product;

— cut a piece from a flat elastic band, the length of which corresponds to your circumference under the chest.
— we place this piece of elastic on the table, and put the cups we sewed on top. Depending on the shape of the breast, the cups will be located either side by side or at some distance;

— fold the elastic in half so that the bottom of the cups is hidden in the elastic, secure them with pins;
- sew the folded elastic band along its entire length;

- having previously measured the length of the harness of your other bra, the cups of which are the same in height as the cups of the bodice of which we are sewing, we cut off two pieces from the elastic of exactly the same length - these will be the harnesses;

- using pins we attach pieces of elastic that will serve as harnesses. One end should be attached to the top of the cup, and the other to the elastic band that serves as the belt of our lace bra;
- sew on the harnesses using a needle and thread;

— our lace underwear will be fastened with a strap adjuster with a hook. We sew it on one end of the openwork sconce belt, and on the other we form a small loop and sew it;

- almost ready. To make it more interesting, we sew two more identical pieces of elastic over each cup.

Result:

Such

The bra model is soft in shape, the cups are formed by one dart.

The bra pattern is given in actual size for two sizes 80 and 85(circumference under the bust).

The pattern is given without seam allowances.

The pattern is printed on a regular printer. You can read how to print a pattern.

These patterns can also be used to sew the top part swimsuit

You can sew bras from cotton or silk fabric; you can combine smooth material with lace, sewing, and guipure.

Bras made from the same patterns, but made from different materials and using different finishes, will look completely different.

For the barrel it is better to use elastic material. On the patterns, the length of the barrel is not completely determined, since it depends on the degree of elasticity of the material and the type of fastener. Therefore, determine the length of the barrel at the first fitting, taking into account all the above factors.

It is recommended to first check the patterns on cheap fabric: cut, baste, try on, make adjustments if necessary, determine the length of the side parts of the bra tera, taking into account the degree of elasticity and type of fastener, and only after that proceed to sewing.

- Having sewn the cups, carefully trim their edge with lace and connect it to the front part of the liner, which is then stitched to the side. (The length of the barrel is adjustable according to the figure).

- The wrong parts of the liner are adjusted so that all internal seams are closed.

- From the inside, along the upper edge of the cup, you can attach a silicone or just a narrow rubber band.

- On the barrels (at the junction of the cup and the barrel), it is recommended to make a “pocket” for the fixing bone.

- It is better to make the fastener in two or three positions. Ready-made ribbon with hooks is sold in sewing supply stores.

- The straps can be either combined: elastic plus lace (trimming, ribbon), or solid: only elastic. But in any case, use strap length adjusters, consisting of a ring and a lock.