Journey to the Amazon. Why You Should Choose This Amazon Journey

The editor-in-chief of National Geographic went to the Amazon jungle, met the Indians, found the most beautiful theater in South America, and when he got to the ocean, he finally understood the Europeans who first came to the Amazon.

A small crocodile froze in the beam of a flashlight at the very edge of the water. Apparently, he hopes to pretend to be a log with eyes. Our guide Roberto abruptly puts his hand into the water. With a straight face, he keeps the caiman under water for some time. It seems to me that crocodile hunters should have just such faces. I unsuccessfully try to shoot in the dark: Roberto lifts the caiman up, holding it by the neck: in this state, the crocodiles are not able to resist. “But it’s better not to put your fingers in his mouth,” he warns.
At night we return to our cruise ship in the middle of the Amazon. In the distance you can see the glow of Manaus - a huge ocean port 1000 kilometers from the mouth of the river. The largest river in the world in the Manaus region looks like a huge reservoir. The opposite bank is lost in the morning haze - almost like the bank of the Volga near Ulyanovsk. True, the green jungle and the occasional Indians betray that we are in a completely different hemisphere.
The meeting of the waters
In the morning, Roberto advises to get up early: we will pass the "meeting of the waters" - the arrow of the Solimões and Rio Negro rivers, the two main rivers of the entire Amazon basin. Solimões is clayey and muddy, while Rio Negro does not live up to its name - it is clean, but the water here is dark brown, almost like ours in Karelia. After the confluence of the waters of the two rivers, several kilometers flow without mixing, as if they do not accept the laws of nature, they do not agree that sooner or later they will have to turn into one river. Actually, somewhere in this place begins a large river, which is called the Amazon.

Manaus is located just below the “meeting of the waters”, ocean-going vessels are standing on the river road, tourists who have come to the selva to see the wild world of the largest river on the planet are waiting in line on the pier. I don’t know what their expectations are, but the city of two million people in the middle of the selva disappoints me, I didn’t imagine the shores of the Amazon like this. Probably, the Indians experienced the same disappointment when they first saw Manaus in reality. Once upon a time, rumors of urban and wealthy life leaked up the Amazon and reached the foothills of the Andes, where good Indians lived in virgin forests, who knew about civilization only from airplanes flying over their heads. Rumors came to the villages time after time, and it became impossible to resist the temptation. Then several tribes on rafts and boats descended thousands of kilometers to Manaus ... Those who have seen the Brazilian million-plus cities are unlikely to call them paradise. And when the Indians rafted to the city, on its dirty streets they realized that Manaus is not a paradise at all, but rather a hell, when compared with life in nature. But the Indians did not go up the river back, and settled on the outskirts of the city.


The government helped with money, now the main occupation of the Indians is a show for tourists. The Indians undress and dance naked or in loincloths, dance round dances, put on beads from small stone phalluses. And then, without even really waiting for the tourists to leave, they put on T-shirts with the ubiquitous Adidas inscription.
A local shaman paints a pattern on my face with the red juice of an unknown berry. My friend and I are going to swim on a pebbly shoal, Indian children are swimming nearby. I feel some strange mystical fear inside when I dive into brown waters, because there are so many myths connected with any river in the world as with the Amazon. Terrible piranhas, crocodiles, anacondas live here, and in addition, a bull shark swims here from the ocean. Well, if you watch a couple of Hollywood horror films, it turns out that you should also be afraid of a hybrid of piranha and anaconda. In general, if you read a lot about the Amazon, it turns out that there is little chance of emerging from the water. As it turns out later, most of the stories are absolute myths ...


On a cruise ship we go up the Amazon - each time we anchor and set off to explore the channels of the river on fast zodiac boats. The selva was badly damaged due to human activities - the jungle was cut down, but our guide knows several channels where you can see what these places were like in primitive times. We land on the beach and walk through the forest. Roberto shows a water tree, inside which water flows and you can drink it. Here we see one and a half centimeter ants. With their help, says Roberto, they conduct the rite of initiation among young men. The boy must stick his hand into the hole of the ants and endure their bites for a while: he who endured becomes a man. Watching me lean towards the hole with curiosity, Roberto still does not advise me to undergo the rite of Indian initiation. We walk through the forest, through the virgin jungle, like pioneers. Sometimes it even seems that we are lost ... The barefoot boy destroys the illusion - he walks towards us with a dog with such a carefree look, as if he had just left the outskirts of his Indian village. And then he saw strange people with cameras who tirelessly photograph the ravine, which he has known since childhood. But Roberto skillfully leads us in such a way that, if not for this boy, we would remember for a long time how we almost got lost in the selva.


The next morning we again set off on a journey along the canals. We sail through the villages, and sometimes we see houseboats with “For Sale” signs. Such buildings have clearly been pre-sale preparation - painted with fresh paint to attract a potential buyer. Even at some point, a thought flashes through my mind: why not buy a colorful purple house in the selva and escape from the hustle and bustle of the city?
Tourists crowd on a small pier and buy souvenirs, it is not clear where and by whom they were made. There is a small park here and you can see crocodiles that have bred in a small lake with stagnant water. And then an Indian with a sleepy python and a charming sloth sticks to our boat. The Indian knows that there are always crowds of tourists who will be happy to touch exotic animals - for a few reais, of course.


But it seems to me and some other tourists that the usual tourist program is clearly not enough. As we rush down the channel again, I see a lonely house and ask the guide to land on the shore. He is surprised, but easily agrees. Women by the river are washing clothes, fish are splashing in a bucket. The owner's granddaughter is only twelve years old, although she looks much older. The girl smiles shyly and leads us to the house on stilts. Now it stands about fifty meters from the water's edge, but when the river level rises, the boat can moor right to the porch. The house is poor, but very neat, a portrait of grandparents hangs on the wall - almost like in our old rural houses. On the balcony there are hammocks, an invariable attribute of Indian houses throughout South America. In general, the locals are very friendly, you rarely see evil looks here. I don’t know what it is connected with, but when we just smile at the Indians, we are invited to visit and are allowed to take pictures of whatever we want.


And then they take us to catch piranhas near some village. Pieces of meat with blood are caught every few seconds - the fish easily catch the bait. One of the most terrible myths is connected with piranhas: if a cow accidentally falls into the water, then in a minute only a skeleton remains from it. Robert says that one or two species of piranha are dangerous, and they are very rare. Well, and so - dried piranha goes especially well with beer. The attraction with piranhas is for inexperienced tourists, but we want an authentic life. We ask the guide to disembark in the village. He looks at us in bewilderment, in his eyes it is clearly read: “Well, why do you need these poor people?”


In fifteen minutes we landed in an ordinary village, where there is not a single tourist shop. When the water rises here, the whole selva becomes like a huge half-sea-semi-swamp with islands of trees and villages. Local residents are always busy - someone is sorting out the engine of an old motor boat, someone is frying maize. Sometimes, among Indian children, a completely blond or freckled face suddenly flashes. It’s a pity that there is little time, but I would so much like to talk with her parents and find out what kind of emigrant “wind” brought them to the selva. For some reason, I draw pictures of the Nazis who fled to South America, but in fact the Germans settled further south. And in these places, whites are most likely descendants of the rubber fever of the early 20th century.


On this stage Caruso sang and Pavlova danced
In the central square of the village, a local pastor in a suit drags children into a barn converted into a church. The children resist, and he embarrassingly persuades them to go and pray. We return back at sunset, almost at dusk. From afar, our ship resembles the old paddle steamers that explored the Amazon a hundred years ago. By the way, I strongly advise you to watch the film "Fitzcarraldo" about businessmen who left Europe and went to the wilds of the Amazon to seek happiness before going to the selva. Thirty years ago, these were completely wild places, and the film of the Cousteau expedition about the Amazon looked like filming from the moon. For a hundred years of human activity, the selva did not give up. Every morning, we are awakened by the grunting of the Inia, the pink dolphin. Scientifically, this is an Amazonian river dolphin - an animal little studied, but there is something romantic in it, when pinkish dolphin muzzles suddenly appear in the channels of the Amazon at sunset ...
To be continued.

The cost of tours at the hotel is calculated by the number of days. The cost of living is from 220 reais (3500 rubles) per day per person. Renting a boat or boat - 320-540 reais (5000-8000 rubles).
You can choose a cheaper hotel, there are enough different "forest hotels" here, the set of excursions is slightly different from those listed above. It is more convenient for some to order them immediately with a tour, while others like to choose the most interesting ones and take them separately.

If the purpose of the trip is to look at the life of the inhabitants of the Amazonian jungle "from the inside", to feel like a resident of the rainforest for a while, then you can choose the appropriate place to stay. The most repeating all the living conditions, customs and traditions of the local population. Rafting on the river is very popular among tourists as a way to get acquainted with the Amazon. During such rafting, travelers live on the ship, and go out to explore the territory at every stop. Before planning such trips, it is better to make sure that the state of health allows you to survive many hours of transitions, all-day excursions and overnight stays in a hammock. However, there are operators that offer a normal bed for the night. A 3-day cruise on the river will cost 750 reais (12,000 rubles, on a boat with an overnight stay in a hammock). About 2,000 reais (32,000 rubles) - on a cruise ship, in a separate room with a shower. There is a private cruise service, which costs much more. For example, prices for a trip on a yacht for 12 people start at 10,000 reais (160,000 rubles).

For the most persistent, there is a “survival program” in the jungle lasting from three days. Vacationers are picked up by a bus in Manaus early in the morning, by lunchtime the group ends up by the river, where the participants get over by canoe and go to impassable thickets. 97% of the Amazon forests are untouched, so there is a great chance to go where no one has really been before. The program includes fishing, crocodile hunting, jungle walks, visiting tribes, swimming with dolphins. Overnight is arranged in hammocks in a makeshift camp. Cooking takes place in field conditions, with the exception of visiting villages where you can have a bite to eat. This is the most breathtaking type of excursion, on no other it is possible to learn so much about the jungle. In addition, this is the most budget option. The cost per person is about 335 reais for a three-day tour (5300 rubles). You can choose 7-day, 11-day, 15-day tours.

In addition to Manaus, you can choose another city as a travel destination - Manacapura, Alvaraes. Or the neighborhood of Manaus, a little remote, but less populated - Ipiranga, San Pedro, Parikatuba.

The territory of the Amazonian jungle is huge, the main thing is not to get lost! Keep up with the group during excursions, do not come close to animals and birds without a guide, even if they seem harmless to you. Do not swim in unknown waters, do not touch the leaves and stems of unknown plants, they may be poisonous. Wash your hands thoroughly before eating, there is a very high risk of developing intestinal infections. You don't want to ruin your vacation. The yellow fever vaccination is now not mandatory for everyone entering Brazil, but it is better not to risk your health, and if you still dare to travel to the Amazon, then it is better to do it. She definitely won't hurt you.

This trip is very different from other cruises offered, it is not just a cruise, but a real river expedition.

Our small groups will go deep into the rainforest, where we will be able to see wild animals that are hidden from prying eyes and inaccessible to other travelers.

We will head to untouched areas of the virgin Amazon rainforest. A trip to the heart of the Amazon is the most intense and unusual trip to the Amazon rainforest possible. The expedition is attended by small groups led by our guides - experienced guides and naturalists. Together we will visit the most interesting places and find the hidden riches of this paradise world of virgin nature. And our vessel, the Tucano Motor Yacht, is designed specifically for this kind of travel, providing maximum comfort during our amazing rainforest explorations.

The small size of the groups is very important.

The maximum number of participants in Journey to the Heart of the Amazon is 18 people. It is much easier to focus on nature and not be distracted by other people in small groups. Large groups also make wildlife difficult to find by increasing the chance of frightening them away. In small groups, we will make excursions, moving deep into the rainforest, on foot or in small boats. For these excursions, our small group will be divided into even smaller groups, each with its own guide. In these small groups, you can fully satisfy your curiosity, and experienced guides will help you with this, answering your questions and telling you all the most interesting things about these places and their inhabitants. Our expedition is the exact opposite of mass tourism. Each trip is a unique exploration of the rainforest, its flora and fauna, in which we will get to know the Amazon wildlife in a way that other travelers cannot.

We will spend more time exploring nature.

The region in which our expedition will take place is the most remote from civilization and human habitats in the entire territory of the Amazon, and by the middle of the first day we will enter full-fledged possessions of wild nature. In this way, we will not waste time looking for areas of forest untouched by man - the so-called virgin places - they will surround us all the time of our journey, and we will spend more time exploring wildlife that is not yet familiar with man. This is precisely the most effective, and, perhaps, the only way to get to know wildlife so closely.

Experienced guides.

Our guides are among the best.

Their knowledge of fauna and flora will help to find and learn the secrets of the rainforest. They will not only help us find the inhabitants of virgin forests, but also tell us about the habits, habits, methods of reproduction, nutrition and adaptation to this mysterious and delightful environment of amazing wildlife. Our guides grew up in these forests and know countless fascinating stories about the majestic Amazonian wildlife.

We are exploring a primeval rainforest.

Our expedition takes place in the least inhabited area of ​​the Amazon, in the State of Amazonas, Brazil. The rainforests here have retained their original appearance, despite all the progress of civilization. These places are the least explored by man. Rare species of animals living here are not found in any other place. We will specially sail along the small tributaries of the river, where the world of wildlife has not yet met with man. M / I Tukano is a unique vessel in terms of design - it not only provides all the conditions for a comfortable trip, but also has an increased cross-country ability, i.e. it will be able to sail through remote sections of the river that remain inaccessible to most other ships. Journey to the heart of the Amazon - an unforgettable exploration of the world of wildlife, unlike any other. For many, it becomes the main adventure in life.

Expedition Cruise in the Amazon.

A journey into the heart of the Amazon is unlike anything offered in the Amazon.

This is a real river expedition.

Our small groups will advance far into the depths of the forest in such a way that

we will be able to see wild animals hiding from prying eyes and inaccessible to other travelers.

We will head to untouched areas of the virgin rainforests of the Amazon.

The river expedition will start in Manus, Brazil, and for seven full days the motor yacht Tucano will sail up the Rio Negro (Neigro is the local pronunciation). Research and search for animals whose habitual habitat is the wild world will be conducted during the day and sometimes even at night. The human foot has not set foot in the studied areas of the forest and the exotic creatures that inhabit them freely roam the tropical thickets.

Traveling through the Amazon on a Tucano motor yacht is an active pastime.

Together with our experienced guides, we will get out into the tropical thickets and explore the bowels of the forest.

The yacht is a means of comfortable transportation along the river, providing the only way through the impenetrable rainforest. During our excursions, we will explore the tropics not only on foot, but also on small boats, rafting along small tributaries leading to the very thicket of the forest. We will also have the opportunity to swim on uninhabited beaches, where the water is crystal clear and comparable in quality to distilled water. And of course, watching the most beautiful views of the majestic rainforest, stretching into the distance as far as the eye can see, we will get great pleasure.

On our many excursions into the forest, we will see amazing plants of all imaginable and unimaginable shapes and colors, hear exotic birdsong and animal calls and watch them directly from the thickets or from a yacht, sailing close to the shore. In the evening we will share our impressions and talk a little about the unusual ways in which the local animals and plants have adapted to life in the "ancient" rainforest. From the deck we will explore the coastal zone sometimes at night, and in the light of powerful searchlights we will see caimans, close relatives of crocodiles.

An expedition cruise is a journey deep into the virgin forest and observing its inhabitants. In small groups, led by the most experienced guides, the expedition members will get to know the world of wildlife in the most direct and exciting way.

The main travel route runs upstream the Rio Negro northeast to the river Rio Jauerperi (major tributary of the Amazon) - about 200 miles from Manaus, Brazil. Along the way, we will explore the surrounding areas and, where the forest is pristine and untouched by man. Our trip will give you the opportunity to see the inhabitants of the rainforest and introduce you to the huge variety of wildlife.

On the last day of our cruise we will visit"Econtra das Aguas" -the confluence of the two largest rivers in the world - the Amazon and the Rio Negro. The clear waters of the Amazon and the dark brown waters of the Rio Negro flow side by side for miles without mixing. We will explore the fabulously beautiful surroundings of this place and visit ecological Lago Janauari, located in the wedge-shaped delta of two rivers.

Rio Negro area.

The Amazon Basin occupies an area similar in size to the continental United States. 300,000 sq. miles - 10 percent of this territory is occupied by the Rio Negro with numerous channels and tributaries. Despite the great length of the Rio Negro, large enough to be called cities, there are only a few settlements here. And for the nature of this area, two definitions are most suitable: wild and virgin. Behind the coastline, an interweaving of vines, vines and branches, hidden from prying eyes is an unknown and mysterious life in which evolution continues its course as it has been for millions of years. A journey into the heart of the Amazon will lift the veil of obscurity and allow you to see this unknown life in the depths of the rainforest.

Local residents.

An integral part of the program is getting to know the locals, whose houses are located in the middle of the forest. We will make a stop to learn from them what it is like to live on the edge of an impenetrable rainforest, get acquainted with their original way of life and amazing crafts. Local people skillfully use plants for medicine, they will tell us what plants to collect and for what.

During our expedition we will get acquainted with different types of tropical forests. Including with unusual and delightful flooded, called the Indians of the Amazon Igapo. In Igapo, dark brown waters overflow their banks at certain times of the year and inundate the forest - sometimes for miles. Orchids and bromeliadscling to hanging tree branches that are home to iguanas, sloths, and many other wild animals.

We will also see two other types of rainforest: the high forest of Terra Firme (where there is practically no water) and fantastic in its richness.lowland meadowForest. And we will also see lovely colorful birds, trees covered with a carpet of orchids and vines, and noisy monkeys jumping from branch to branch.

Schedule.

During the trip, the daily routine will change. But the general plan of the expedition is scheduled strictly by day. Every morning we will get up with the sun and then either lower the boat and inspect the coastal territory in search of birds and awakening monkeys, or move on foot into the thicket of the forest. In a few hours we will return to the yacht, where a full Brazilian breakfast will be waiting for us. After a short rest, we will go on a tour.

The ship will leave around noon and the voyage will last until the middle of the day - the time when the animals leave their homes in search of food. At this time, the expedition members are divided into those who want to watch the forest and breathtaking views from the observation deck, and those who prefer a light sleep before the next excursion. Two hours before sunset, we will board the boats and go to explore the rainforest. In the evening we will share our impressions of what we saw and expectations of what awaits us the next day. Sometimes in the evening, transferring to small boats, we will go in search of wildlife with the help of powerful searchlights.

Time for rest and fun.

In the forest we will see and do a lot, but we will have enough time for rest and fun. We will sail along one of the cleanest rivers in the world, the waters of which are as clean as rainwater. We will go fishing a little and look at the inhabitants of the underwater world.

Almost everyone can catch a piranha. Every day during the day sailing on the deck, something unusual will await us, and besides, we will admire the sunset, which is simply amazing in these latitudes. In the evenings, guests can go up to the observation deck and watch the amazing constellations of the Southern Hemisphere and millions of stars in the Amazonian night sky. In this extraordinary place, with guides who are true professionals in their field, your pastime will be exceptionally interesting and exciting, bright and rich.

Motor Yacht Tucano.

Motor Yacht Tucano is the most comfortable boat to travel in the Amazon. The yacht is not replete with luxury items such as crystal chandeliers Swarovski , nevertheless, it will provide maximum comfort and allow you to feel at ease while watching nature and having fun. And all this in a good-natured atmosphere of light humor of relaxation, enjoying every minute spent in this amazing place.

"In the distant Amazon
I have never been
never go there
foreign ships.
Only Don and Magdalene
fast ships,
only Don and Magdalene
go by sea there"

Well, and so on. I must admit that this song has been haunting me for a long time, and the dream of the distant Amazon has been a thorn in my head almost since early childhood. Three years ago, Mario and I had a good trip around Peru, visiting Lima, Cusco, Arequipa, Machu Picchu and Titicaca. But the legendary Amazon at that time was not reached due to the lack of vaccination against yellow fever. Therefore, on my last visit to Moscow, I took care of this vaccination in advance and now I was in full combat readiness. In fact, initially I planned a trip to the Brazilian Manaus, but the crisis and the collapsed ruble ruthlessly buried these plans, due to the unprecedented high cost of the Brazilian part of the Amazon. And I had already completely abandoned the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bgetting to the inaccessible Amazon, when suddenly, out of the blue, the LAN airline, which I almost always fly in South America, threw out an unusually generous offer, from Santiago to Iquitos via Lima and back for only 280 dollars. I simply could not miss such a chance and immediately grabbed these tickets. Grabbed and began to calmly wait in the wings. But there were no people willing to accompany me on this voyage. Neither Mario, nor his relatives, nor people from my surroundings here shared my enthusiasm for such an exotic destination. And some even frankly twisted their fingers to their temples, not understanding how one could want to get into these wild places with a terrible climate, potential extreme sports and an abundance of mosquitoes. Weird people!

I rejoiced in my soul, looking forward to my Peruvian voyage alone and a meeting with this great river, recognized as one of the seven natural wonders of the world. And once again convinced that everything that is done, everything is for the better. As it turned out, Peruvian Iquitos is much more economical than Brazilian Manaus, so it is better for budget travelers to start exploring the Amazon from here. In fact, the Amazon flows through nine countries: Brazil, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela, Bolivia, Guyana, Suriname and even French Guiana. But most of it belongs to Brazil and Peru, which is why these two countries are primarily associated with this river.

I saw the beautiful Amazon from the porthole window when I flew to Iquitos from Lima. On this segment, it is very important to sit by the window, because the views there are so dizzying that you should not miss them at all. From above, the mighty river is perfectly visible, meandering among the green canvas of the tropical selva with a giant serpentine ribbon and its tiny tributaries-springs.

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Unforgettably!

I must say that before the trip I did a lot of preparatory work, as a result of which I caught an agent named Rosendo in the wilds of the Internet, who offered me a three-day tour of the Amazon for $ 150. Doubts tormented my soul all three months before departure - what if it’s a scammer, what if he lures me into the jungle and leaves me there alone or, at best, starts extorting money, this price seemed painfully unrealistically low to me. There were many fears, but fortunately they did not come true. Everything turned out to be much simpler, safer and more civilized than my wild imagination had imagined.

The hotel in Iquitos was booked directly, where I spent the first and last two nights. Hotel Terra Bella (www.terrabellaperu.com) 3 stars with all individual amenities, a stone's throw from the central square, with breakfast and airport transfer cost me $25 per night. And it is also considered quite expensive by the standards of Iquitos, it could be found cheaper. Peruvian Rosendo met me right at the hotel and took me to the agency Huacari Tours (www.myamazontours.com), where they told me in detail about the tour, for which I really paid only $ 150. This price included three days accommodation in a separate lodge with private facilities, three meals a day, transfers and all guided tours. Almost free! To tell the truth, for the same money it would be possible to buy a tour on the spot, without first cheating with an agent, but I was calmer that way, and in any case I didn’t lose anything. What you should never do is to book such tours in advance on the Internet directly on the websites of local travel agencies. After all, quite different prices are declared there, usually twice as high as the real ones. And we don't need to pay at all.

For the rest of the time, the helpful Rosendo helped me change dollars at a good rate, and at the end of the tour accompanied me around Iquitos and its environs, which was very convenient and saved me a lot of time. They were very satisfied. In total, I spent 5 full days in the Peruvian Amazon, distributing them as follows: two days in Iquitos and surroundings and 3 days in the Amazon. I will tell you about Iquitos itself and the attractions around it separately. Now I will focus directly on the Amazon ecotour.

About transfer

The next day, early in the morning, I was picked up from the hotel and, together with a motley international company, was taken by minibus to the port of Nauta, 100 km away. from Iquitos. From there we started on a large motor boat to the eco-lodge, where we traveled along the river for another two hours. In total, the transfer took five hours in total, but the second part of it on the water was very picturesque and not at all tiring. Once in the port of Nauta, I shuddered inwardly - the market and the port coexisted as one, everyone bought something, ran along the flimsy footbridges, shouted in their throats, loading bags and water into the boats.

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It is clear that Nauta is the starting point for ecotours in the Amazon and its tributaries, here people stock up and go to the lodges on the river. This same Nauta stands on the Marañon River, which further downstream merges with the Amazon and Ucayali. It turns out the confluence of three rivers, an interesting natural phenomenon, which I managed to see in all its glory.

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It was here that my first real meeting with the Amazon, the most abundant river in the world, took place, and at its very source. A wide, mighty river, tens of kilometers from coast to coast, but the color is rather unsightly - brown, coffee, dirty.

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But this is a misleading impression, the water in the Amazon is not at all dirty, it just has a lot of sand and earth. Turning to Ukayali, the picture changed radically, we found ourselves surrounded by completely different landscapes - backwaters overgrown with water lilies, grass fields,

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cotton trees in red buds,

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herons flying up from the grass

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and locals in canoes.

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And reflections, fabulous reflections of luxurious cirrus clouds everywhere. Inverted clouds floated in the water, creating an extraordinary looking-glass effect, when the sky and water merge into one so that it is impossible to distinguish where the real picture ends and where the reflection begins.

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Where is a mirage and where is reality is not easy to understand. Absolutely amazing impressions when you see such an upside down world for the first time in your life. And the clouds change all the time, changing their shape and shape, turning either into fairy-tale characters or into the castles of Fata Morgana.

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In fact, this is a complex of wooden houses covered with palm leaves. There are houses on the water and are interconnected by covered walkways. There is a common terrace with hammocks, a gathering place for groups and a common dining room. The conditions are very basic, but there is everything you need for life. The most important thing is the bed under the mosquito net, there is nothing else from the furniture.

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I was lucky, in my hut there were as many as three beds, and I had the privilege of freely throwing my things on them. All huts have a separate bathroom, separated by a curtain. The water in the shower is only cold, from the river, but in the heat you can wash yourself and this, in any case, it is not icy. Instead of glass in the windows, there is a mesh, everything is well ventilated, you do not suffer from the heat in the house. Light is given from the generator in the evenings for two hours. During this time, you can charge the batteries and wash. After dinner, the lights are turned off. Everything is very well thought out, the concept of proximity to nature is evident. Naturally, there is no Internet or TVs at all, and why are they there, if only they would distract from contact with nature. And what a diversity of sounds there, especially in the mornings and evenings! The choir of frogs, birds, cicadas brings out such roulades that you will hear. The first night I couldn't sleep because of the noise. Then I got used to it and no longer paid attention.

Three meals a day is also basic, without frills, but quite suitable for this format. The basis of our diet was naturally rice, fried bananas, chicken, fish, eggs. Water from the cooler without restrictions. You can live without a doubt.

In my group there were three Frenchmen and one Australian, with whom I had to spend these three days.

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The guys traveled in a big way. The French had already been traveling around Peru for a month and were going to look into Bolivia, and the Australian intended to spend several months in South America, and then rush to Europe. I also met a terribly independent girl Naomi from Holland. Surprisingly, the girl is only 21 years old, and she has been traveling alone throughout South America for three months now.

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Still, I never tire of being surprised by the courage of the current young generation, and I am especially pleased that we have such guys who are not afraid of anything and move freely around the world. But they still have more of these, travel in the backpack format is very developed among European youth. We are just starting to get used to it. From Peru, young Naomi was going to fly further to Quito and the Galapagos, about which I told her everything from my experience of last year's trip. In general, against the background of these young people, with my six days on the Amazon, I seemed like a strange misunderstanding. In addition, I was the most mature among all this motley youth company, which, however, did not prevent me from easily communicating with the guys. In the evenings, we usually gathered on the terrace, rocked in hammocks, chatted about life, shared impressions from different parts of the world. I love this very special spirit of the international community of travelers that usually reigns in this kind of travel. Already experienced it in Bolivia, and now also here in the Amazon. As they say, better late than never.

The order of life in the lodge is built as follows. At eight in the morning, breakfast and immediately after it, departure by canoe, three hours of navigation to various places, return, lunch, rest and at three o'clock again in a canoe to meet nature. After dinner, there are also sometimes night outings. We swam so once in total darkness in the hope of seeing caimans, but we never saw them, but we admired the fireflies and heard enough of the frog singing.

About animals

In general, frankly, I was hoping to see a lot more living creatures on the Amazon. It seemed to me that there all the shores were teeming with different monkeys, birds, and dolphins and caimans jump out of the water and swim after the boat. In fact, of course there are animals there, but you have to look for them, watch for them. There is no abundance at all.

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During the three days spent on the Amazon, we managed to see several small monkeys in the trees, a couple of sloths hanging upside down, many herons, hawks and small birds, several large iguanas in the trees, water snakes and pink dolphins from afar.

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Dolphins were the biggest disappointment for me. River dolphins turn out to be very shy, they do not approach the boat and do not jump out of the water, unlike the Pacific ones. Therefore, we saw only their fins and part of the body.

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On the last day, as compensation, I had to inspect them at animal farms around Iquitos.

Fishing is also somewhat disappointing. Only one boy from our team caught a piranha, the rest, including me, did not catch anything. Piranha, of course, is something.

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A small fish like that, nothing special in appearance, but the teeth are sharp as a razor. With them, she can easily bite a human finger.

In general, locals say that in order to see an abundance of jaguars, tapirs, monkeys, caimans, anacondas and other typical representatives of the Amazonian fauna, you need to at least go to the jungle for 5 days, sleep in hammocks, eat what you have to, in general, experience it on your own skin. real extreme. I am no longer capable of this, so I limited myself to an intermediate superficial version of acquaintance with this part of the world.

About river landscapes

What made the most impressive impression on me after the fabulous reflections of clouds in the water was the landscapes of the flooded forest. In general, the tributaries of the Amazon are, in my opinion, the most interesting in terms of local landscapes and landscapes. You swim along a narrow river overgrown with strange plants,

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swim in the grassy fields of river cabbage,

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you wade between them, and then swim under the overgrown shore and find yourself in a dense flooded forest, where the trees seem to grow out of the water, where everything is intertwined with lianas, and everywhere you can hear the sounds of frogs, the singing of birds and the hubbub of monkeys.

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And it's so nice to slide on a fragile boat along these backwaters and water paths, absorbing unusual sounds and smells! Absolutely crazy feeling there, believe me. Our guide and conductor Raul, deftly steering the boat,

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turned her on in such a windbreak and wilds of the Amazonian forest that sometimes it became uncomfortable. Will we swim out of here or get tangled up in these thickets?

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Exciting, nerve-wracking. Very extreme and very beautiful.

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A special article among the Amazonian landscapes are trees and their reflections in the water surface. Also from the category of fantasy, aesthetics in its purest form.

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A couple of times we saw an interesting effect of multi-colored water with a pronounced dividing line.

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The water of the two tributaries of the Amazon has a different color, and their composition never mixes. Looks very impressive.

And the famous Amazonian sunsets were also there, we had a chance to see them in all their glory. The orange circle of the sun literally merged with its reflection in the mirror surface of the water, creating a mirage effect.

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At such moments, a feeling of absolute peace descends. Sunset on the Amazon is perhaps one of my most vivid impressions on the river.

Night walk also gave unforgettable emotions. We were lying in a boat in the middle of a large river, the starry sky above us, ringing silence and pitch darkness around us, and only occasionally fireflies flashed on the shore and frogs croaked. The atmosphere of mysticism, without exaggeration.

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And of course, the fields of giant water lilies Victoria Regia made the strongest impression. After all, these are the largest water lilies in the world, capable of withstanding a weight of up to 50 kg. and the main visiting card of the Amazonian flora.

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Water lilies, named after the English Queen Victoria, look unusually graceful, despite their strength and power. The process of contemplation of these beauties gave me a lot of pleasure and aesthetic pleasure. The only pity is that we did not see their flowers. It's not so easy to do that. Flowers at Victoria Regia appear on the surface of the water once a year during flowering, and then only for a couple of days.

About climate and seasons

I ended up in the Amazon during a transition period when the water is already starting to subside, but the dry season has not yet begun. The advantage of this season is in the beautiful landscapes of the flooded forest, which you will not see during the dry season. The downside is fewer animals. In the dry season, they say, there are more of them. Frightened by horror stories about high humidity, I can objectively say that humidity in a heat of 38 degrees is really hard to bear. As soon as you go out into the street, already all wet. For this reason, there is no need to make up and comb your hair. But on the river, especially when you are sailing in a boat, humidity and heat are not felt at all. You simply forget about them and do not experience any discomfort. It was really hard only in the jungle, where there is no breath at all, stagnant air. So, the devil is not so terrible as he is painted. The climatic conditions in the Amazon are severe, but quite bearable. It was raining, really heavy, showers, too, but more and more at night. During the day we got caught in the rain only once, while fishing for piranhas. Maybe that's why I didn't get anything.

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What I was really afraid of was mosquitoes. I stocked up on thermonuclear repellants with a high content of DEET. It's hard to believe, but there were practically no mosquitoes there, except that in the evenings one or two will fly by, biting slightly. In any case, compared with our bloodsuckers near Moscow, Amazonian mosquitoes are sheer baby talk. Repellents were not needed, brought them back. I used it only during a trip through the jungle, spraying my clothes with them just in case. Though it probably depends on the season. They say that in December-February there are really a lot of mosquitoes.

As it turned out, the highest season in the Amazon is July-August, despite the low water. It's all because of the Europeans who are on holidays at this time and they come here in large numbers. Prices naturally skyrocket during this time.

About the track in the jungle

A three-hour selva track was also part of our program and, I confess, it became the most difficult test for me in all three days of the ecotour. We started from one village on the river. It looked like this - our guide Raul was ahead, cutting down branches with a machete to clear the way for us, and another local guide was closing the procession.

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Probably, just in case, so that no one gets lost. It is very hot and humid in the rainforest, and walking almost knee-deep in mud is not an easy task, your legs get stuck all the time, you have to tear them out of this slush with force.

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Everyone was exhausted terribly, I - most of all. Of the pleasant moments - drinking the juice of the liana.

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An extremely exciting process when you drink refreshing juice directly from the trunk of a freshly cut vine. For group drinking of this delicious drink, we pleasantly spent half an hour, at the same time we had a rest. During the trek, the guides showed us all sorts of outlandish plants and herbs of the selva. Some disinfect and heal wounds,