Natural fabrics for sewing: linen, silk, cotton and their properties. Raw material composition of fabrics

FABRIC COMPOSITION.

Fabrics are made up of fibers. Fibers can be natural (vegetable - from cotton and flax or animal origin - wool and silk) and chemical. Chemical fibers, in turn, are divided into two groups: cellulose, chemical fibers - viscose, acetate, triacetate (from cellulose) and synthetic, chemical fibers - polyester, polyamide, polyacryl, etc. (from petrochemical products). It is very important to determine the composition of the fabric in order to properly handle it in the process of sewing, ironing, grooming, socks, etc. The most difficult thing is to determine the composition of mixed fabrics. Below we give recommendations that do not give 100% certainty, but will help you to roughly determine the composition of the tissues. Take a 5 cm long piece of cloth with tweezers and hold it over the flame. ... As soon as the fabric catches on fire, put it in a fireproof dish and watch the burning process. If the fibers of the fabric are vegetable (cotton, linen, viscose), then the shred will burn quickly, with a flame, and you will smell the burnt paper. If the fibers of fabric are of animal origin (wool, silk), then the shred will burn slowly, without a flame, and you will smell the burnt hair. If the fibers of the fabric are synthetic (polyester, microfiber, etc.), then the shred will melt without a flame and instead of ash, a solid ball will remain. If you want to check if the fibers are acetate, throw a piece of fabric into the nail polish solution. These fibers must collapse.

Natural fibers.

There are four types of natural fibers: linen, cotton, silk and wool. Cotton and linen are of vegetable origin, and wool and silk are of animal origin (protein). The fibers of cotton, flax and wool are shorter than the fibers of silk (this is the only long natural thread in nature).

Linen fabrics. They are hygienic, moisture and air permeable, wash well, soft, varied in design, have a specific plasticity, expressiveness. But these fabrics wrinkle and shrink strongly. Therefore, before you start working with them, you need to moisten them, let them dry, and then moisten them again and iron them well. You should not use linen fabrics for styles with folds and complex cuts - the clothes will have to be ironed too often. Linen fabrics without the addition of other fibers always have a pleasant shine. With the addition of cotton, they are lighter and softer, their surface is matte. With lavsan, they shrink less, wash easily, but are more difficult to iron.

Cotton fabrics. They also wrinkle, but very easy to iron. They sit down, so you also need to wet and iron them first. Everyone knows perfectly well chintz, cambric, marquise, satin, calico, poplin and many other cotton fabrics. Sometimes viscose is added to the fabric, and then shiny sparkles or a pattern appear on their matte surface. The group of cotton fabrics and types of cotton are represented by: cambric, gauze, chintz, denim, rosin, teak, coarse calico, percale, nansuk, organdy, pique, poplin, veil,

Natural silk fabrics. These are noble fabrics for elegant blouses, dresses, dress-suits. Their processing during sewing must be very careful. They have a slight shrinkage (crepes - more, linen - less), they need to be ironed wet. Artificial fibers are mixed with natural silk to obtain new interesting textures and spectacular weaves. The group of silk fabrics and types of silk are represented by: comb, crepe, crepe georgette, chiffon, veil, silk fabric, fay, taffeta, satin, brocade, foulard, crepe de chine.

Woolen fabrics are divided into costume fabrics, fabrics for dresses and for coats. Most of them have an admixture of other (most often chemical) fibers to increase strength, reduce shrinkage and crease. Woolen items are well dry-cleaned and require light ironing afterwards. At home, washing can greatly deform the product, and it will be very difficult to restore its shape and quality. This is especially risky for things with lining, padding, etc. The group of woolen and woolen fabrics is represented by: twill, tweed, boston, carpetcoat, cloth, cheviot, duvetine.

Artificial fibers
There are artificial fibers of plant origin. They are produced from cellulose or cotton waste. These are viscose and acetate, as well as synthetic fibers (polyamide, polyester, polyacrylonitrile, etc.). Fiberglass and some types of metal filaments are made from minerals. There are also synthetic threads with a metallic sheen.
Artificial fiber is produced in the form of a continuous thread. Thanks to this structure of the yarn, the fabric has a smooth surface with a clear weave pattern. Continuous synthetic fibers are sometimes cut into short lengths (staples). Fabrics made from such staple yarn, in structure and outward appearance resemble woolen ones.

Viscose fabrics. Staple-viscose fabrics (staple) are best known. The canvases are matt, pliable, one-colored or with a printed pattern. They are soft, pleasant to the touch, however, if they are not impregnated with a special solution to impart rigidity. But they are not very durable. Loss of strength mainly when wet. You should not sew clothes with narrow armholes and sleeves from viscose fabrics. One-piece or shirt, spacious sleeves are more suitable for them. These fabrics, like cotton and linen, shrink and therefore require pre-soaking.

Acetate fabrics. Like viscose, they do not lose strength when wet, but they also have lower hygienic characteristics. Acetate fabrics must be washed very carefully in warm water and, without letting them dry completely, iron them with an iron heated to no more than 140 degrees. Do not hold the iron in one place for more than 20 seconds.

Polyamide fiber fabrics. The fabrics of this group have the highest strength indicators - they do not rub and do not deteriorate. But they also have drawbacks. They, for example, turn yellow when exposed to light and become harder, "dry". In addition, these fabrics easily absorb fats and oils. which are difficult to remove. But these fabrics are easy to wash, poorly absorb moisture, which is important for outerwear. Most of modern artificial silk fabrics are produced from blended fibers, combining acetate, triacetate, synthetic threads, threads and fancy twists. This improves not only their appearance, but also their properties. The group of fabrics made of polyamide fibers is represented by: nylon, bologna, varnish, nylon, dederon, perlon, etc.

Blended fabrics. Thin or dense fabrics for light and outerwear, equally used in products for women, men, children. Fibrous composition these materials are very diverse. The most popular blends of cotton and synthetics. Among them are fabrics for men's shirts and women's blouses, for trousers, skirts, suits, for light and warm jackets, for raincoats and quilted coats, they are also used for hats. Mixed fabrics are represented by one type - the so-called raincoat fabric.

... And other fabrics. There are several types of fabrics that differ from each other in their surface. For example, fleecy. These include: velvet, corduroy, plisse, bike, flannel, duvetine, cheviot. Woolen fabrics (for example, tweed) are made from fluffy, rather thick yarn with a felt-like surface and a subtle weave pattern. Combed fabrics (such as gabardine) are made from smooth, stiff and relatively fine yarns. The surface of such a fabric is smooth, elastic, with a clearly distinguishable interweaving of threads. It is better not to wash the combed fabrics, but to dry clean them.

FABRIC PROCESSING

Various types of man-made and synthetic fibers are added to fabrics. Synthetic fabrics are produced so that in appearance they resemble fabrics made from natural fibers. Woolen fabrics are treated with special compounds against shrinkage so that they can be washed in warm water, like synthetic ones.
To improve the appearance, the fabric is mercerized (treated with an aqueous solution of alkali, giving shine) or, conversely, impregnated with special compounds to remove the gloss. Special chemical compositions make fabrics stiff, oily substances - softness and flexibility. The fabric is impregnated with anti-shrinkage compounds to impart crease resistance or water repellency. Sometimes cotton fabrics are processed so that the products from them dry quickly after washing and do not require ironing.
The fabric is dyed, a pattern is applied to the canvas. Dyes affect materials in different ways: some fabrics absorb them, others repel them. For example, some dyes for wool do not stain cotton fabric. Many synthetic fibers require special dyes that are not suitable for other materials.
The dye must have special properties depending on the purpose of the fabric. For example, fabrics for curtains and curtains should not transmit light well, linen should not fade from frequent washing, lining fabrics should withstand dry cleaning and should not be destroyed under the influence of skin secretions.
The printed pattern is applied to the canvas using a dye paste. It is undesirable to buy fabrics with a printed pattern in a cage or strip, because due to the mismatch of the stripes of the pattern with the direction of the weaving of the threads, it will be impossible to combine its individual elements on the seam lines during cutting.

WEAVING

With the help of weaving weaving in the weaving industry, threads are connected to form a woven fabric. This is possible by connecting the weft and warp threads together. The basis is called the threads stretched along the entire future panel vertically, and the weft - horizontally. The way these threads are connected determines the type of weave. There are three simplest types of weave: plain, twill and satin.

Linen, or taffeta - the simplest and, apparently, the most ancient, in which there is a strict alternation of the warp and weft threads in a 1: 1 ratio. Moreover, if the first warp thread came out to the surface, then the second is closed with a weft thread, etc. This strict alternation occurs along the entire length and width of the fabric. This produces a material that is the same on both sides.

Twill, or cyper, or diagonal weave one in which each thread of the weft in relation to the warp thread in each next row moves one move to the right or left. The intersections of the threads form diagonal stripes on the surface of the fabric at an angle of 45 degrees. If the wefts move to the right, a front twill is obtained, if to the left, a purl.

Satin weave differs from the previous one in that at least five warp threads cover the weft that comes out to the surface only above one warp thread. Such an atlas is called the main one. If at least five weft threads cover the warp in such a way that only one main thread appears on the surface of the fabric, then a weft atlas. The variety of fabrics, made in three main types of weave, is achieved by the type of raw materials, as well as by mixing them. It is important: the same raw material was used for the weft and warp, or different; threads of the same thickness vertically and horizontally or not; both threads were tightly twisted or one of them was not twisted at all; yarns of the same or different colors were used for the weft and warp. With the help of the width of the fabric, the edge, you can determine the type of machine and the place of production of the material. Already several centuries ago, they learned to combine several types of weaves in one fabric, obtaining satin patterns on a linen background or twill on a satin background, etc. Using one of the types of fabric as a primer, but introducing an additional pile thread, you can get fabrics using the velvet technique. After processing the finished material with a special press, moire was made. By chemically etching woolen fibers and removing impurities, the highest quality boston was produced. V XVIII-XIX centuries not only silk or velvet, but also specific fabrics became the class index. Cheaper imitations immediately indicated the true position of a person in society.

TYPES OF FABRICS

The range of vintage and contemporary fabrics is amazing. Let's dwell on just a few of them.

Openwork- fabric with a through-pattern of various yarns (cotton, silk, woolen), as well as a product from such fabric. Openwork was especially popular in the first half of the 19th century.

Axamit - gold or silver fabric with herbs and streaks, dense and fleecy, like velvet. To withstand the weight of gold (or silver) threads, the fabric was formed from six threads - two warp and four weft threads. The pattern on the fabric was made using a twisted gold thread.

Altabas - dense silk fabric with ornaments or a background of gold or silver thread, a kind of brocade. Altabas was highly valued and used for the needs of the royal court and church.

Alpaca- lightweight fabric made of alpaca llama wool using the technique of plain or twill weave, as well as the wool of the pet of the same name. Alpaca are bred in Bolivia and Peru. The coat is soft, fine, with a silky sheen, very valuable.

Angora- wool (down) of an angora rabbit living in captivity. Bred in France, England, Germany.

Atlas - fabric with a very shiny surface of a special type of weave. The fabric is as smooth as lining, sometimes satin is used for lining as well. Atlas is Arabic for smooth. It has been known in Russia since the 15th century. Atlases were Veneditsky, Vinitsa, Kizyl-Bash, Chinese, Tours, German; monochrome, multi-colored, gold, etc. Satin was used to sew tolls, opal lands, caftans, ferez, zipuns, fur coats, summer coats, padded jackets, tafias, kicks, hats, mittens, pants, stockings, chobots, shoes, blankets, curtains. In the 19th century, several types of atlas were distinguished. For example, atlas Mentenon - flowers are woven against a dark or light background, as if embroidered; Trianon - background and pattern of contrasting color, pattern on fabric - leaves with bouquets of carnations, pompadour - atlas dark shades with woven garlands of golden color.

Acetate silk- silk made from artificial fiber, first obtained in the United States by chemists Celanese Corp. of America in 1925.

Bike - soft woolen or paper fabric with a long pile. The first mention of it is found in the "Census Book of the House Treasury of Patriarch Nikon" in 1668: "the cloth of a red bike, measuring two arshins." The word "baika" came to Russia, probably from the Polish language, and in it it is a borrowing from Dutch through German. Initially, the woolen bike was dyed in chestnut color, later they began to make it in a variety of colors and even in a cage. From the second half of the XIX For centuries, mainly cotton bikes of different varieties and colors have been made.

Barge - fabric made of silk, wool, cotton using the technique of gauze weaving. Named for the town of Bareges in France. It was very popular in Russia in the first half of the 19th century. The fabric is very impractical to wear. In the 20th century, it fell into disuse.

Velvet (velor is the French name for velvet) it can be thin and shiny (for example, panne velvet), matte, thick or plush. In any case, a pile standing in a certain direction is typical for it. There is also velvet, textured or patterned, made of cotton or rayon. Ribbed velvet is a ribbed fabric. Boiled Velvet is a short-haired, soft, ribbed velvet that can be washed and ironed. Woolen velor fabrics have a rough pile surface on both sides. The word "velvet" goes back to the Arabic "barrakan" - "a kind of black clothes", it came to the Russian language from German. Weaved it with two warp threads, one of which was wound on a bar (metal or wooden) - loops were obtained, they were cut - a pile was formed. The length of the pile depended on the thickness of the bar. Velvet with uncut loops was called looped. The "ripped" velvets had a smooth satin background and a pile pattern. In dvoemichih background with a short pile, and the pattern - with a long one. In 1584, one ruble was paid for one arshin of Venetian smooth (Venetian) velvet. In the 17th century, velvet began to be produced in Moscow. We already knew paper velvet - velvet (later it was called velvet). For gold velvet, the entire background was woven with gold thread, and for Axamic, the pattern was made with loops of gold thread. In 1247 a guild of velvet weavers was established in Venice. In the late Gothic and Renaissance era, patterned velvet was very popular. The design for the fabric was often created famous artists... In the 17th century, silk velvet was replaced by woolen velvet, and later by cotton velvet. The Velvet Yard in Moscow under the leadership of Ivan Dmitriev was founded in 1623. In the 18th-19th centuries, velvet was used as a decoration for men and women's clothing.

Batiste - soft, thin cotton fabric having a plain weave of threads. From cambric they sew children's underwear and handkerchiefs. Batiste is made from natural and artificial fibers. Batiste is linen and cotton. Linen of higher quality, made of long, even fibers. In the old days, cambric yarn was produced in damp cellars in order to achieve high quality. Over time, they found a way to keep the yarn moist by injecting hygroscopic glycerin into it. The word "batiste" is French. The fabric is named after the Flemish weaver Batista from Cambrai, who was the first to receive it in the 13th century. At the beginning of our century the best fabric produced in France and Belgium. At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, Scottish paper cambric, or cambric muslin, was highly valued.

Belset- microfiber fabric with a fleecy and soft surface similar to peach skin. Imitation of velor leather.

Bologna - nylon raincoat fabric with one-sided waterproof coating. The fabric is named after Italian city Bologna, where this fabric was first made.

Boston - dense pure wool fabric of twill weave, in two or more threads. Named so for the breed of Boston sheep bred in England. Usually boston is a fabric of dark, dense colors - blue, black, sometimes brown, with double-sided dressing. It was relevant until the end of the 60s of the XX century. Its popularity is associated with the boston waltz.

Tarpaulin - coarse, dense, linen or cotton fabric impregnated with a waterproof and anti-rotting composition. It is used for workwear, covers.

Broker- light and graceful silk fabric with small golden or silver bouquets, sometimes shaded with colored threads. The fabric was fashionable in late XVII century, a summer dress was sewn from it.

Boucle - woolen fabric with a knotty surface and irregularly spaced loops. The yarn of a shaped jacket is inserted into the plain weave woolen fabric, which is why loops and knots are formed on its surface. Coats and suits are sewn from thick boucle, thin ones are used for dress.

Bumazeya - soft paper fabric of twill, less often plain weave with a combed pile on the wrong side. Original title fabrics - paper. The word first appears in Russian customs books of the first half of the 17th century. This fabric is used to sew underwear, baby clothes. Unlike the bike, it was produced painted with ornaments.

Bufmuslin - cotton fabric, very thin, almost transparent, a kind of muslin. This fabric was especially appreciated in the XVII - early XIX century. Later, only young girls wore dresses made of this fabric, and ladies used bouffmueline for home clothes.

Calico - paper strong, rather coarse fabric, a kind of thick calico. The broad calico is called "canvas". Used mainly for making bed linen... V XVI-XVIII centuries coarse calico was brought from Khiva and Bukhara, from where the eastern name of the fabric came (according to one version - Tatar). In the old days, coarse calico was called differently: Asian, Persian or Bukhara fabric, paper canvas. Calico was used for the lining of caftans, flys (scarves). There were two varieties: simple - awl; the best, thinner, followed by bleaching - khanagai.

Batting - knitted fabric with one-sided and two-sided pile, produced using soft thick threads; layer of fibers interconnected in a certain way, for example, knitted and stitched. Used to insulate clothing.

Velveteen - a fabric created on the basis of cotton and viscose silk. A typical production with a rib with different pile heights on the front side. Corduroy is very durable. The fabric has many different names. For example, Manchester corduroy, wide rib corduroy, narrow rib corduroy, velvety corduroy, cotton corduroy, patterned corduroy, elastic corduroy. Corduroy cord has wide ribs (about 5 mm) and a high pile. Corduroy with narrow ribs (2-3 mm) and low pile. Shaped corduroy has a pattern consisting of combinations of a smooth and brushed surface.

Velveton (or monkey skin) is a strong, dense, windproof cotton fabric that is usually sewn from sportswear... Has a velvety surface, combed, smoothed pile on the front side. Reminiscent of suede. As a kind of velvet, velveteen has come into use among Russians since the second half of the 19th century under a borrowed name. At first, it was used for decorative purposes, as a cloth for clothing was used only in the 20th century. It becomes especially fashionable in the 1960s and 70s.

Velours - the general name of materials, the surface of which is fleecy and partly reminiscent of velvet. This includes not only fabrics (cotton, woolen, artificial silk), but also felt and leather. In some countries, velvet is called velvet and velveteen. Velor is a fabric with a velvety surface formed by a soft pile. There are several varieties. Velor-velvet - soft velvet with a pile of viscose silk on a canvas made of natural silk crepe fabric. Drap velor is a pure-woolen fine-woolen fabric with a thick, short-cropped, combed pile on the front side.

Camel's wool - undercoat or down of a one humped camel. Camel wool is often processed without dyeing and is used to make coat fabrics. The unpainted coat has a light brown color.

Vigogne - soft material or yarn from wool of animals of the genus of llamas, common in some countries of Latin America. The wool of this type of llama is very difficult to obtain (the animal only needs to be combed out, not cut). Therefore, Vigonya is usually called a fabric made from cotton waste mixed with wool. The resemblance of Vigoni to a cloth made of vicuña wool (llama type) is only external: the color is brown or brown, the front surface is slightly fluffy due to the inclusion of woolen threads. But unlike high-quality wool fibers, it is not wearable. In the 20th century, fabric is rare, and vigogne yarn is widespread.

Viscose - artificial fiber from cellulose, as well as fabric based on it. Often, viscose is included in blended fabrics, for example, with linen or silk. The initial production of viscose was established in England in late XIX century, and then in other countries. On the basis of viscose with the addition of natural fibers, various types of fabrics were obtained, for example, staple. Pure viscose has many disadvantages: it shrinks when soaked and loses its strength.

Vichy- the name of this plaid fabric comes from the French city of Vichy, where it was created in 1850. Previously, the small-check pattern was made only in red or blue and white. Now other colors are combined with white. This pattern is most often found on cotton fabrics. Once the fabric was used for bed linen and clothing of villagers. Now it is used to sew men's shirts, dresses in folk style, as well as curtains, tablecloths and napkins.

Veil - a transparent plain weave fabric, most often made of cotton.

Gaba - a very dense white cloth used for the manufacture of outerwear. It was distinguished by high water-repellent properties.

Gabardine - a very tightly woven fabric with a special weave of cotton and wool or artificial fibers. Because of its strength, gabardine is often used for women's and men's suits and coats. Modern gabardines are made with a special water-repellent impregnation. The color of the fabric is mostly gray, less often blue.

Gas - light, thin, transparent silk or cotton fabric with a special gauze weave, in which the weft and warp threads keep space. The weaving method determined the gas grade. It could be satin, twill or canvas.

Worsted- a genus of woolen fabric, named after the city of Arras in Flanders, where it was originally produced. V. Customs books of the Tikhvin monastery of the 17th century mention "100 arshins garusu".

Guipure - lace fabric, made up of fragments sewn with a needle or woven on bobbins, which are interconnected by thin bundles. It was made of the finest cotton or silk threads. Guipure is now produced by machine.

Gazet - from the French word - "glossy". Brocade with a colored silk base and woven gold and silver patterns. For example, smart camisoles (XVIII-XIX centuries) were sewn from the brocade.

Glenchek - woolen or mixed fabric with a special pattern (a cage consisting of a main square and a square on top of it). Depending on the type of weave, a "chicken foot" or pepita cage is obtained. Glenchek is popularly called Scotch. This fabric has other names associated with the names historical figures who loved plaid clothes. For example, the cell of the "Prince of Wales", "Prince of Gaul", "Esterhazy".

Tapestry- art and decorative fabric made by machine. The fabric is named after the French royal manufactory established in 1662 in Paris on the Rue Gobelins - masters, yarn dyers. Then they made the tapestry by hand. Currently, the fabric is used for upholstering furniture, for curtains, as well as for jackets and bags. Dresses, ties and scarves are sewn from thinner tapestry. The material is dim, the fibers are dyed with natural dyes. A variety of motives are used for the ornaments, imitating the carpet paintings of the 15th-19th centuries.

Grisette - in the old days, light cheap fabric, gray dress. The material is silk or woolen one-color with a woven pattern. At first it was only gray, but in the 19th century it was also made in red, green, blue.

Gridelin - fabric of gray color in a small strip, more often in black, sometimes in white. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, the name referred only to woolen fabrics. Business trousers were sewn from gridelin. Now the name of the fabric has disappeared from use, although similar materials continue to be produced.

Gro- in the old days, the name of silk, the densest fabrics: gro-gro, grodenapl, grodetour.

Lady - dense one-color fabric with a woven pattern from any raw material. The term goes back to the Syrian city of Damascus, where this type of fabric began to be produced. Usually, all fabrics of the lady type were double-sided, they could be used both on one and on the other side.

Damascus - silk, woolen or cotton fabric of plain or crepe weave, sometimes in combination with satin. Cotton Damascus is used for the manufacture of lingerie, for decorative purposes, silk - mainly for decorating products.

Damasket - a brocade-like fabric with a satin background and gold flowers.

Damasse- translated from French - "patterned". Plastic, usually silk fabric, on the shiny surface of which there is a matte pattern. Damasse, like other jacquard fabrics, has traditionally been used for lining, upholstery, but in Lately is increasingly used to make fancy blouses and dresses.

Damask - white cotton fabric with a shiny floral pattern on a matte background.

Denim- very strong, dense denim cotton fabric. It has been known since the end of the last century, then its name arose, which in translation from French means "from Nimes". Nimes is a city in France where this fabric for workwear was created. The cowboy cattle breeders of America, where denim was exported, appreciated the fabric and happily wore trousers and jackets made from it.

Jersey - the name of a group of dress fabrics made of viscous thin woolen knitwear, as well as knitted woolen or silk fabrics and products from it. For example, Roman jersey is a heavy, low-elasticity double-sided jersey, most often made of high-quality natural wool, with front loops on both sides. The fabric is named after the English island in the English Channel. We owe the wide distribution of this fabric to Chanel. It was she who, in 1916, ventured to buy from the inventor of the material, Rodier, the jersey he produced for the clothing of athletes. The fabric was not in demand. She was considered tough, little aesthetic, the beige color in which she was painted was called poor. Chanel sewed a loose-fitting coat from this fabric, without any embellishments. Then came the shirt dress, also made of jersey.

Diagonal- woolen or cotton twill weave with a characteristic woven pattern - oblique raised ribs. In the XX century, dark blue or khaki fabric is used mainly for sewing uniforms.

To great-grandfathers - very light cloth in plain weave, usually light, sometimes with striped ornaments. In the 19th century, the urban poor were in demand - they sewed clothes and scarves from fabric. In the 20th century, the fabric fell out of use.

Drape - very thick and soft woolen or semi-woolen fabric with a fleecy back and a smooth front surface. A coat that does not have complex details is most often sewn from it.

Duvetin - fabric of satin weave made of cotton or viscose with thickened weft threads. After dyeing, the fabric is combed and becomes rough. Duvetin is also called fake velvet.

Duchess - a noble, very shiny, smooth fabric made of silk or artificial fibers, which is used for evening dresses or as a lining for high-quality women's clothing.

Herringbone, herringbone fabric - the pattern on the fabric resembles herringbone trees. The interlacing of the fibers is along the rib and diagonal.

Jacquard - a fabric named after the French inventor J.M. Jacquard. Around 1800, he created a machine for the production of large-patterned fabrics by separately controlling each warp thread. The resulting patterns were named after him.

Georgette and crepe georgette - a fabric made of highly twisted crepe twists has an uneven, finely structured surface. The fabric is soft, flowing, sandy to the touch.

Suede- soft leather, tanned and impregnated with fats from the skins of calves, goats and deer. Has a velvety appearance. How the fabric is used for sewing outerwear.

Marshmallow - thin, delicate cotton fabric from bleached twisted yarn in the form of small cells, as well as woolen fabric from best breeds sheep wool. It seems soft and flowing. Shirts and blouses are sewn from fabric.

Kalamkar- chintz hand-stuffed.

Damask - double-sided patterned silk thin fabric. The combination of satin and plain weave created a special optical effect. In the XVI-XVII centuries, fur coats, caftans, quilts, hats, sleeves, sashes, pants, stockings, pillowcases, blankets were sewn from damask. Since the 18th century, kamka began to be called damask. In the 19th century, the name of the fabric fell out of use.

Camlet- dense woolen or semi-woolen fabric, usually dark in color. Known in Russia since the 18th century, camel's wool was used as a raw material for it. Only wealthy people could afford clothes made of kamlot. Nowadays kamlot is forgotten, although similar fabrics from camel wool continue to be produced.

Kamchatka - patterned linen fabric for table linen, towels.

Kanifas - thick cotton fabric with a woven relief pattern in the form of stripes.

Nylon - synthetic fiber, used for the production of fabrics, knitwear. Differs in high wear resistance, elasticity, crease resistance.

Astrakhan- lamb skins at the age of 1-3 days of the Karakul breed, valuable fur, is distinguished by a very elastic, dense, silky, shiny hair, forming curls of various shapes.

Broadtail - skins of lambs-premature beetles (uterine development 4.5-5.5 months) of the Karakul sheep breed. Valuable fur, characterized by a low, shiny silky hairline with a more or less pronounced moire pattern.

Kashgora - a noble fabric made from the wool of the Kashgori goat, bred in New Zealand. The fabric has the luster and lightness of cashmere and is very durable.

Cashmere - thin light woolen or semi-woolen fabric with a diagonal rib on the surface. Real cashmere is made from the wool of tiny lambs. School uniforms and aprons are made of dark cashmere. Printed cashmere is used on scarves, shawls, dresses. The meaning of the word "cashmere" is interpreted in two ways. On the one hand, this is the name of a goat that lives in the Himalayas. It is from the wool of this goat that the raw materials for the fabric are obtained. On the other hand, Kashmir is an Indian state, from where fabric has been imported to Europe since the 18th century. Here is how the newspaper "Rumor" wrote about cashmere in 1832: "Tibetan cashmere, which has the finest of the finest cashmere. It is used to sew, depending on the colors, elegant and negligee dresses. This fabric is very durable and therefore will be in great use."

Kiseya - a thin rare fabric, currently cotton Kiseya was produced in colored, embroidered with silk or other colored threads.

Cloquet- a two-layer fabric with a bubbly surface, woven on two bases, which are located one above the other. It is made from wool, cotton or artificial fibers. The underside of the fabric is smooth, stretched, and the top has a convex, bubbly pattern. Jackets and dresses are sewn from it. Cotton fabrics are also produced with the cloquet effect - they are subjected to special processing in order to achieve the effect of crinkling, roughness. Cloquet cannot be ironed.

Covercot - thick fabric twill weave with characteristic small dots on a dark background, very similar to gabardine. Woolen, semi-woolen, staple and paper carpet are produced. In Russia, the fabric appeared at the end of the 19th century. In the middle of the 20th century, the fabric was considered prestigious; respectable Soviet employees wore clothes made of it in combination with a velor hat.

Leather - tanned animal skin. Already in Ancient Greece shoes were made from leather. In the 8th century BC, gloves were made from it. In the 18th century, both footwear and hats and trousers were made from leather. Later it is used even more widely. The first motorists and aviators were dressed in leather from head to toe. In 1965, Pierre Cardin used this material extensively for his products. At the end of the 20th century, even evening dresses to the floor are sewn from leather,

Goat- the skin of kids up to 1 month old, as well as premature kids of various breeds of goats. The fur coat has fine hair, soft, glossy, rather low, with a moire pattern or smooth.

Calico - cheap paper fabric such as thick calico, white or monochrome. Its name may come from the French word calicot - paper fabric from the Indian city of Calcutta (which was called Calicut). Or from the word calencar, borrowed from the Persian kalamkar - the name of a dyed fabric imported from the East. The white calico went on shirts, linen, and the colored calico went on the lining. Calico was very widespread in the 18th-19th centuries. At the end of the 20th century, it was used as a linen fabric.

Crackle (translated from French - cracked). The surface of this fabric resembles crepe and has a bubble structure. This fabric is made of cotton or man-made fibers, so it works well for blouses and dresses.

Krashenin - rough painted canvas. In the 19th century, peasant shirts were sewn from Krashenin.

Crepes - the name of a very large group of fabrics that are produced from different fibers, but they all have a finely rough surface. The crepe effect is achieved, firstly, due to the very strong twisting of the fibers; and secondly, irregular crossing of threads. The crepe family includes: crepe georgette, crepe de chine, crepe satin, crepe morocin.
Crepe de Chine is a delicate silk fabric that takes on its typical matte look when used special kind weave.
Crepe georgette is usually a very thin and transparent silk fabric that has common features with chiffon and crepe de Chine. But crepe georgette is denser and grainy to the touch. The woolen fabric obtained with this type of weave is also called georgette.
Chinese crepe - silk, printed crepe.
Crepon is a wool crepe.
Crepe-Morocin - silk, dense and soft, monochromatic !! or patterned crepe.
Crepe-rashel - golden-colored crepe.
Crepe satin - silk crepe, soft, usually monochromatic, characterized by a combination of a rough surface on one side and a smooth shiny surface on the other.

Cretonne - cotton fabric of plain weave (the weft thread is slightly thinner than the warp thread). Made of pre-dyed yarn, with checkered or striped textile motifs. In the 19th century, it was used very widely for the clothes of less wealthy people, as well as for upholstery of furniture.

Krinkle, crash - wrinkled fabrics. The folds are often wrinkled in the lobe direction and are more or less pronounced.

Crimplen - one of the synthetic fabrics. Volumetric, plastic, soft. Does not wrinkle, easy to wash. At first it was incredibly popular, but in last years gave way to all kinds of blended fabrics that are more like natural fabrics.

Lace - a strip or piece of textile obtained by sewing, knitting or braiding. Lace appeared in Europe at the turn of the XV-XVI centuries. The first lace was sewn with a needle, it was called "a stitch in the air". In Russia, the first laces were metallic, made of gold and silver threads - they were used to trim the clothes of the nobility. In 1837 a lace-making machine was invented. They got cheaper and went into finishing lingerie,
Lace fabric - a transparent openwork fabric with a pattern formed by combining compacted and discharged places with holes, which are obtained for an estimate of the weaving of threads.

Kumach- paper tissue, as a rule, is bright red (from the Arabic "kumash"). In the old days, there was blue and another color kumach.

Lavsan - polyester fiber, which goes for the production of fabrics, clothing and other products. It got its name from the abbreviation: Laboratory of Macromolecular Compounds of the USSR Academy of Sciences, where this fiber was first obtained.

Vigogne lama is one of the most expensive fabrics in the world. Its name comes from the endangered species of llamas in Peru. The fabric of this wool is more beautiful than cashmere.

Lame - translated from French - a metal plate. Shiny threads are woven into the fabric. The surface has a metallic sheen.

Laika - especially softly dressed leather, most often used for the manufacture of gloves. The best varieties of huskies were made from the skin of newborn kids, the worst - from the skin of lambs, the lowest - from sheep skin. The laika should be very elastic, stretch well and take its original shape again, keep a soft shine on the front surface. It was very difficult to put on real husky gloves - they fit tightly around the hands, without a single wrinkle.

Lycra - synthetic fiber, which is used in the production of stockings, tights, leggings. It provides a perfect fit for products. Invented by DuPont.

Varnish - smooth shiny fabric used for sewing outerwear, bags.

Latex - fabric made of rubber fibers.

Eraser - dense thin cotton satin weave with a smooth shiny surface. Dresses are sewn from it.

Linen- a natural product obtained from flax stalks. The threads can be of different thicknesses. Linen is highly wrinkled, breathable and feels cool when touched.

Loden- very dense woolen fabric. It resembles cloth, but softer and thinner. The thin loden was first produced in the 20th century and was especially popular in the 70s.

Lurex - inexpensive shiny, viscous fabric made of metallized threads. Shine is achieved by applying foil or synthetic foil.

Lustrin (from French - shine, gloss) - shiny harsh woolen fabric of various shades. To add shine, the finished fabric was subjected to a special treatment. Thinner grades of lustrina were used for the manufacture of women's clothing, and denser grades were used for men's clothing. In the 1920s and 1930s, the lustrine jacket was worn by small employees with philistine claims to intelligence. Lustrin production ceased in the 1940s. There are no analogues among modern fabrics,

Madapolam - thin dense linen cotton fabric, a grade of bleached calico of the highest quality. It got its name from Madapollam, a suburb of Narsopur in India. Pillowcases were usually sewn from madapolam, which were decorated with embroidery, lace, ribbons. Many pillows in such pillowcases were laid out on the beds in merchant and bourgeois families - this allegedly testified to wealth. At the end of the 20th century, Madapolam was produced in the form of a measuring cloth for bed linen.

Marquis - transparent paper or silk fabric made of high quality twisted yarns. Originally from France, where "marquise" is the name of the outdoor canopy by the window to protect from the sun (it is made of paper fabric).

Gauze - cotton fabric of very rare plain weave. It got its name from the city of Marly, near Versailles in France. The gauze was dyed green, gray or blue color... Used for covers, for fitting window frames. Nowadays, gauze is used exclusively for medical purposes. But in the 1970s, gauze was popular, almost as rare a fabric as gauze. It was produced both in monochromatic and multi-colored.

Matlasse - artificial or natural silk with a jacquard, as if embroidered pattern. The fabric is very similar to a shred.

Merino wool, or merino - twill weave fabric made from wool of merino sheep living in Australia, or South America... Wool is thin, soft and elastic.

Calico - a simple and cheap cotton plain weave fabric. For the Arabs, "calico" is a measure of price and weight. The fabric was usually made from unbleached yarn. After bleaching the fabric and impregnating it with glue or starch, a calico was obtained, after drawing a pattern - chintz. After staining - kumach. Modern calico is made from thinner yarn, from which, after appropriate processing, chintz, madapolam, muslin are obtained.

Moleskin- thick cotton fabric of satin or twill weave with a fleece on the inner surface of the fabric. The name comes from English words mole - "mole" and skin - "skin". From it they sew a working, sports, special, home, uniforms, shoe top. Until the late 1950s, ski suits were made from moleskin.

Mohair- wool of Angora and mohair goats from the Angora region in Asia Minor. It gives the jersey a typical furry look, more durable than other types of wool.

Moire - translated from French - moistened with streaked water. Silk or faux reps having a shiny pattern on a matte background. It resembles a pattern that can be seen on a longitudinal cut of a tree. In the 20th century, moire came into fashion again. They sew from moire fancy dresses, use it as a lining. Less expensive moiré with a repeating pattern, like printed on heel. Expensive moire - with constant pattern variations.

Muslin- light, thin and soft fabric, cotton, linen, woolen or silk, not tightly woven and fluffy. The name of the material comes from the French word mousselline; the fabric itself came to Europe from the Iraqi city of Mosul. Muslin was also called muslin. In the last century, the best muslin was imported from England and India; Muslin was popular until 1910.

Nanka - coarse cotton fabric of thick twill weave, usually yellowish with a reddish tint. It got its name from the city of Nanjing in China, from where it was brought in in the 19th century. The fabric was used very widely - both for sewing clothes and for technical purposes. In the 20th century, it was used as the basis for grinding skins.

Nylon- synthetic fiber, easy to wash, dries quickly, does not need ironing, does not tear.

Oxford- striped or checkered fabric, usually cotton, for sewing shirts, shirts. Named for the city of Oxford in England.

Organdy - very thin, transparent, rather stiff cotton fabric or rayon. In the distant past, it was imported from East India. In recent years, fashion has again drawn attention to her. Used for evening blouses and jackets worn over tops or bustiers.

Organza - light transparent fabric with a soft, modest sheen. At first it was only silk, now it is made of polyester.

Brocade- patterned fabric of intricate workmanship, often with threaded gold or silver threads. First, it was imported into Russia from Iran and Turkey, later - from Italy and France. However, already in the 18th century, brocade was made in Russia.

Pepita - fabric in a small black and white or brown and white box. It is woven using yarn of different colors for the warp and weft. In contrast to the “kurima paw” cell, the diagonal rhombuses of the pepita do not have elongated elongated corners. Woolen fabric is used to sew women's suits, men's jackets, coats, in particular for children. Cotton fabric with a pepita pattern is used in children's clothing.

Perlon - polyamide fiber fabric. This fabric has been supplied to Russia since the mid-1950s. Fabrics made from domestic fibers of this type were called nylon, materials produced in Poland were called stilon, in the GDR - dederon, in Japan - amilan. And production in the United States began with nylon obtained in the 1930s. Blouses and men's shirts were sewn from perlon. The fabric was well washed, dried quickly, did not wrinkle, but was not hygroscopic.

Pique - translated from French - quilting, stitching. Cotton and rayon fabric with ribbed or honeycomb front. This fabric with a plastic surface gives the impression of being rather rigid. Available in two versions; plain dyed and printed. Hemsh vest from a pique was a must for the evening men's suit... The fabric is widely used in children's clothing. Classic white collars are sewn from pique.

Plush - pile fabric with a pile extended up to 8 mm on the front side. The pile can be silk, woolen and cotton, while the linen is in all cases made from cotton fabric. The fabric is known p. Russia since the XVI! century. Since about 1870, a jacket made of plush fabric has become widespread; it has survived in peasant life to this day. The fabric is used for decorative purposes, for sewing women's dresses.

Canvas - fabric of a plain weave made of flax, hemp. Used for clothing and bedding.

Poplin - strong, dense, but not thick, mercerized cotton fabric. It is made on a silk basis and a woolen or cotton duck, due to which a small scar appears on both sides of the fabric. Poplin is used to sew men's shirts and children's clothing.

Fimble - hemp fabric, rough and tough to the touch, was produced only on peasant farms.

Ravenduk - plain weave fabric made of different types yarn. Now they produce a linen ravduk called linen canvas. It is characterized by a gray background with a pattern of flower garlands of roses and other flowers, or with hemstitching. Until the late 1950s, the fabric was widely used for sewing clothes, as well as for interior decoration.

Ratin - woolen fabric of twill weave with a slightly wavy pile with characteristic tubercles. Ratin has been known in Russia since the 18th century. The fabric is used for sewing outerwear. There are both monochromatic and multi-colored materials. Ratin best quality called a ratinet.

Reps - dense, thin fabric with discreet woven vertical and horizontal lines, often made from mercerized cotton or silk.

Matting - a dense and durable fabric on which, during manufacture, squares are formed on both sides, arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

Twill - coarse cotton, silk or staple fabric with diagonal stripes on the front side.

Satin- Cotton very smooth, soft falling fabric with a shiny surface. Lining satin is a smooth, thin, dense and shiny viscose fabric.

Sersuker - a fabric in which the entire surface or individual stripes resemble tree bark. In a real fabric with this name, the effect is achieved due to a special weaving of threads, in a fake fabric - due to the chemical treatment of the fabric. In the 1950s, libertine satin with a small floral pattern was popular.

Chintz - lightweight cotton fabric of plain weave, obtained as a result of finishing of calico. Used for sewing light dresses, women's, children's, men's shirts.

Scarlat- purple fabric. The first mention in Russian sources occurs in 1286, when Prince Vladimir Vasilyevich bought the village of Berezovichi for "five locks" of scarlat. Ivan Danilovich Kalita, Grand Duke Vladimirsky, left to his son a "scarlet portico", and Ivan Ivanovich (Kalita's son) bequeathed the "scarlatn opale". At that time, cloth in Russia was a rarity. Scarlat clothes were inherited and entered into spiritual books. It is curious that scarlet fever, in which there is reddening of the skin, owes its name to tissue.

Stretch- fabric made of elastane - an elastic artificial fiber. Even a small amount of this elastic fiber (Lycra) is enough to give the fabric a special ductility.

Cloth- woolen or semi-woolen fabric of plain weave. Thanks to felting and fleece, it acquires a felt-like surface. Dumping or ironing results in a felt-like surface. Cloth was very popular among men and women in the 18th-19th centuries.

Taffeta - from Persian - brilliant. Pure silk taffeta is a very shiny fine silk fabric that feels stiff and rustles when the fabric is moved. Taffeta is also made from cotton. The rigidity is imparted by chemical treatment, and therefore the taffeta wrinkles a lot. The fabric was produced in one-color double-sided or patterned one-sided. Used for curtains, curtains, fur coats covered with it, allowed on the lining. Sundresses, scarves, and puffy petticoats were sewn from bright taffeta.

Tweed - fabric made of coarse variegated knotted yarn, which looks like hand-made. The warp and weft often come in different colors. Tweed is usually reserved in tones. Tweed is originally a rough woolen red fabric, smooth or twill, often plaid. It was first produced in Scotland at the Tweed Riwer weaving mill, which is where the name comes from. High quality tweed was also produced in Ireland, from Yorkshire yarn, which was dyed and trimmed in the city of Donegal. Nowadays, tweed is a soft woolen fabric for suits and coats. For the British, tweed is also a tweed suit.

Teak - dense cotton or linen fabric, one-color and with wide colored longitudinal stripes. Used for awnings, covers, bedclothes.

Tights - dense woolen or blended fabric of finely patterned weave, as well as knitted clothing that fits the body tightly.

Jersey - machine knitted fabric, as well as products from such fabric.

Tulle - Thin mesh or patterned sheer fabric, often with a honeycomb structure. In the old days, women’s headdresses were made of cotton and were worn. Named for Tulle in southwestern France, where production first began.

Felt - non-woven fabric, obtained by felting rabbit, hare down, less often - waste of fur of valuable breeds of fur animals, sheep's wool. It is used for the manufacture of hats, berets, shoes.

Fildekos - fabric of tightly twisted cotton thread with a silky sheen. It was used to make men's socks, women's and children's stockings, gloves.

Fildepers - a silky knitted fabric made of fine, tightly twisted cotton thread. Socks, stockings, gloves, and underwear were released from it. In the early 1950s, fildepers replaced nylon, which was thinner and more transparent.

Flannel - the collective name of fabrics made of cotton, viscose or wool, with one- or two-sided fleece. A pile of fabric is visible if you run your hand against it. Cotton flannel, or winter cotton, with geometric patterns is used for men's sports shirts, with a floral pattern for children's clothing. Woolen flannel is used to sew women's clothing.

Non-woven - non-woven adhesive pad. Differs in thickness, softness.

Frize - fabric with a plush surface reminiscent of terry cloth.

Frote- the fabric from which terry towels, bathrobes, sheets are made.

Cotton - a natural material that is pleasant to wear in the heat, as it absorbs moisture well. However, it quickly creases and shrinks at the first boil. Cotton becomes wrinkle-free when mixed with chemical fibers or after special chemical treatment.

Mercerized cotton - refined cotton with an exquisite sheen. This makes the colors brighter.

Cotton winter - brushed cotton fabric: flannel, bike, etc. These fabrics are used to sew blouses, trousers, jackets, which are worn in winter.

Canvas - linen fabric of plain weave. Shirts and ports were made from it. It was bleached, ornamented, or kept white.

Chesucha - dense silk fabric of plain weave, has a yellowish-sandy color. It is produced from a special grade of natural silk of uneven thickness - tussor. Plain cotton fabric is also called.

Chints, or English chintz - polished cotton fabric, the surface of which gives the impression of being rubbed with wax. The fabric has a pattern on a light background, a glossy finish on the front side. Does not get dirty or wetted with water. Used for decorative purposes.

Shanzhan- fabric with multi-colored warp and weft threads, which create a two-tone iridescent effect. The fabric is made from natural or artificial silk.

Cheviot- soft woolen fabric of twill weave, woven quite rarely. She is felted and sheared. Cheviot is only one-color - gray, black, blue. It is mainly used for sewing outerwear.

Silk - its thread is obtained from silkworm cocoons. Depending on the output, itch-silk or less valuable silk-buret with a granular surface is produced. Wild silkworm silk has thickened threads. Boiled silk - matte, reminiscent of suede.

Silk Batiste - cotton cambric, which acquires a silky shine with special processing.

Chenille - Heavy, velvet-like fabric with double-sided pile.

Wool - natural fiber from wool of sheep, goats, camels. Already in ancient times, wool was known in Asia. Now the first place in wool production belongs to England.

Chiffon - very thin, delicate, flowing fabric of crepe twist yarn, silk or chemical fibers with an uneven surface. It feels like sandy. Chiffon is the lightest fabric, but it is also very fragile. Cotton chiffon was first known. Silk dyed chiffon has been circulating since the 1900s. From the middle of the 20th century, printed silk chiffon has been in fashion, and cotton has been forgotten.

Plaid - fabric with symmetrical cells of narrow and wide stripes of a pattern, multicolored or tone-on-tone. Even in the era of the appearance of iron, the Celts weaved checkered patterns from high-quality wool. Moreover, each clan had its own pattern of fabric. The main herald, the keeper of the coats of arms and seniority of the clans, carefully monitored the correspondence of the tartan pattern. In 1746, after the Battle of Inverness, the British, by special decree, banned the Scotswoman, as well as the Scottish National dress... Only in 1782 the ban was lifted, but over the years, the traditions of processing and dyeing fabrics have been lost. Its production was gradually getting better, and now the Scottish woman is very popular with the couturier. In the collection of the autumn-winter season for 2000 by Jean Paul Gaultier, products from the famous tartan are widely represented, including kilts - men's wrap skirts.

Staple - soft silky fabric of various colors made of silky fibers. It became widespread in the middle of the 20th century due to its relative cheapness. The fabric has one drawback - it shrinks strongly after washing.

Linen - it is a fiber that is produced from the bast part of the stem of the flax plant. The fibers that are obtained from the stems, leaves of the shells of the fruits of plants are called bast... Distinguish between elementary and technical fibers. Elementary fiber is one plant cell. Technical fibers are bundles of elementary, glued together with pectin substances. There are several groups of flax: flax - fiber (stem length 80 - 100 cm), flax - mezheumok (technical fiber), flax - curly (low-quality fiber - tow), etc.

Fibers contain 80% cellulose and 20% impurities (fatty, waxy, coloring, minerals). For instance, lignin(a complex natural polymer that is part of plants, a product of biosynthesis), which makes the fibers stiff. The lignin content is 5%. After the flax stems are cut, they are spread out for a long time in the field or soaked in special pools in water. Then the soaked stems are dried and machined. They are crumpled, ruffled, to separate the fiber from the wood of the stem and other fabrics.

Thickness elementary fibers are the same as cotton fibers, their length is 15-26 mm.

Length technical fibers depends on the length of the plant stem and the degree of fiber fragmentation during processing. On average, the length of technical fibers used in spinning is 35-90 cm, the thickness is 10-3.33 tex.

By strength linen the fibers are up to 5 times higher than the strength of cotton fiber elementary fibers equal to 0.98 - 24.52 cN, that is, Linen fabrics retain the shape of the product better than cotton. At relatively low loads (25%), the proportion of permanent deformation is up to 60-70%. This explains the great crease of linen fabrics and products made from them.

Colored fibers - from light grayish to dark gray. Linen has a characteristic shine, so its fibers have a smooth surface.

In terms of physical and chemical properties, flax is close to the properties of cotton fibers. The hygroscopicity under normal conditions is 12%. Linen quickly absorbs and releases moisture. High thermal conductivity is a feature of linen, thanks to which linen is always cool to the touch. Such valuable hygienic properties as good hygroscopicity, the ability to quickly absorb moisture and quickly evaporate it, high thermal conductivity, make linen indispensable for summer clothes.

The action of acids and alkalis is the same as for cotton. Linen fibers are difficult to dye and bleach than cotton. Such a reaction is associated with the structural features of the fiber, since it has thick walls and a narrow closed channel, and the rich natural color of flax. The effect of mercerization in flax fibers is less noticeable, since they have a natural shine. Boiling in soap-soda solutions (weak alkaline solutions) dissolves pectin substances. The fibers become lighter, softer, and the strength of technical fibers decreases.

Hot metal surface action flax tolerates better than cotton, since it has a high hygroscopicity. Under the influence of direct sunlight for 900 hours, the strength decreases by half, since the resistance is higher than that of cotton fibers.

Linen is used to make dresses for men and women's suits... From natural flax sew tablecloths.

All consumer properties of upholstery fabrics are directly related to its raw material composition. Natural ingredients allow the material to maintain its natural hygienic and tactile properties. Synthetic fibers - provide strength.

Knowing the advantages and disadvantages of the fibers that make up this or that fabric greatly facilitates the process of choosing upholstery for upholstered furniture.

Animal fibers

WOOL

Sheep's wool. The most important wool producing countries are Australia and New Zealand. Also noteworthy are Russia, Argentina, South Africa and the United States. Wool structure. Wool fibers, like all fibers of animal origin, are composed of a protein substance. Wool is a natural fiber that none of the artificial ones can seriously compete with. Actually "wool" is a collective term that includes wool and sheep, and camel, and goat, and llama, and rabbit, and even a dog: the wool of various animals also differs in properties. And by application.

Properties of wool. Heat resistance: The most famous property of wool is its ability to conserve heat. This is because wool, thanks to the composition of its fibers, can bind a lot of heat and retain it between the fibers. In addition to its good ability to generate heat, there is also such a feature that wool, absorbing moisture from the environment, releases heat itself. Felability: The composition of the cage gives the coat the ability to felle. Under the influence of heat and moisture, the cells on the surface of the fibers open, and if then the wool is rubbed, the cells adhere, and the fibers cannot return to their normal position. Felting is accompanied by contraction. Felting is good, for example, when making blankets, but it can be avoided by using an anti-felting treatment on the wool. For example, super-wash treatment, after which the product can withstand machine wash. Other properties: Wool fibers are dirt-repellent and easy to clean. Due to the elasticity of the fiber, the product does not wrinkle, and the folds straighten by themselves, especially in wet weather. Wool pests are moth moths and microbes. If the wool is left in a damp place for a long time, germs cause mold and rotting of the wool. Excessively high drying temperatures and prolonged exposure to sunlight will reduce the durability of the wool. Wool is relatively resistant to acids, but alkali, even in a weak solution, spoils the coat. Wool is a good raw material for textile products. It is often used in a mixture with some kind of chemical fiber to improve the strength of the product and its detergent properties, as well as to reduce the price. Speaking of wool, we generally mean sheep's wool, but wool as a raw material for the textile industry is obtained from other animals.

MOHAIR

When defining "mohair", it should be borne in mind that this is goat hair, and not just any fluffy yarn, as for some reason many believe. And the features of this hair are such that there can be no one hundred percent mohair: it will simply disintegrate into separate hairs. The maximum content of mohair in yarn today cannot exceed 83%. Mohair is obtained from the Angora goat, which is bred in Turkey, South Africa, Australia, USA and Argentina. Mohair differs from sheep's wool in that its fibers are longer, smoother and softer. Mohair sits down very little. It is used to produce yarn mixed with sheep's wool and polyacrylic. Even 15-20% mohair is enough to give the material a mohair look. The softer mohair wool comes from Kid mohair, which is made from the wool of goats no older than 8 months. Mohair requires special delicacy - wash should be carried out in water at room temperature, using a mild shampoo. The high price of pure mohair often forces you to mix it with ordinary wool, as well as with artificial threads - with acrylic, polyamide and others.

CASHMERE WOOL

From a cashmere goat of the Tibetan breed, you can get a thin, soft and expensive wool when combing. The most important manufacturing country is currently China. Cashmere wool is used for luxurious garments mixed with wool, silk and synthetic fibers.

CAMEL'S WOOL

Camel wool is of two types: long top coat and bottom wool, which is used in textiles. Camel hair is especially warm. It is obtained by combing a camel and is quite expensive.

ALPACA

Alpaca, or llama, is an animal of the camel family. The qualities that appear to us when we define "camel hair" are largely applicable to alpaca wool. Peru is the main producer of alpaca. Alpaca wool is highly prized. And therefore, and also due to its characteristics (the wool is very hard), it is rarely used in its pure form. The benefits of alpaca wool are most evident in blended yarns. Blends with ordinary or merino wool, with artificial fibers (for example, with acrylic) are widespread. The main advantage of products made of alpaca wool is that they practically do not form pellets - long fibers prevent dumping. The color range of alpaca wool is quite wide, about 20 shades can be distinguished - from pure white, traditional beige or silver - to brown or even black. A feature of alpaca wool is that naphthalene cannot be used when storing it, and therefore only natural remedies are used as an anti-moly for it - lavender, tobacco and cedar.

ANGORA

Angora is now commonly called rabbit fluff. It was once received by the Chinese as an analogue of the real angora, now called "mohair", since the "special" goats did not take root well outside Turkey. Rabbits, whose wool is used to make yarn, are called Angora. Angora wool is definitely very fluffy, soft and warm. But at the same time, it has the annoying and well-known property of "peeling", and this cannot be prevented, even by reducing the percentage of angora in the yarn. This is rabbit fluff - it is not firmly fixed in the yarn. Therefore, by the way, angora wool is practically not used in its pure form - in yarns it is mixed with ordinary or merino wool, as well as with acrylic. The disadvantage of angora is that products made from it cannot be washed, moreover, they just need to be protected from getting wet. Angora can only be cleaned chemically. Nevertheless, products made of high-quality yarn with angora can last for more than one year.

SILK

Silk, or rather, silk thread, is a product of the activity of the silkworm, an insect known in China since time immemorial (according to Confucius, from the 3rd millennium BC). Until the 6th century, the secret of sericulture was kept secret, and only ready-made fabric came to Europe. Silk perfectly "cools" in the heat. Oddly enough, this property stems from its ability to keep warm. Equally valuable is the fact that silk fiber, without becoming wet to the touch, is capable of absorbing moisture up to 50% of its own weight. Pills, the main enemies of other types of yarn, are practically not formed on silk fabric. Silk thread is very strong, but in some cases requires particularly careful handling: silk products can only be washed with mild detergents and cannot be dried in the sun. There are many types of silk (damask, muslin, gauze, etc.). For knitting, blended yarns are used - with cotton, viscose, synthetic fibers.

Vegetable fibers

COTTON

The original homeland of cotton is India, and almost from the same ancient times, it was grown in Egypt. Currently, the most important cotton growers are the United States, Russia, Egypt, India, China, Pakistan, Brazil and Mexico. Cotton fibers are seed lumps, like sunflower seeds. In terms of composition, cotton is cellulose. The fiber has a flat ribbon structure and is twisted. Fiber length ranges from 10mm to 66mm.

According to the length of the fiber and the place of growth, cotton is divided into 3 types: 1. Long, thin, durable, shiny fiber 25-60mm. This cotton is native to Egypt and Iceland. It is difficult and expensive to grow. Egyptian cotton is used for fine fabrics and sewing threads. 2. Medium fiber, thicker than Egyptian cotton, fiber length 13-33mm. This category of cotton includes, for example, American Upland cotton. Cotton is the most grown in the world and is the most important industrial raw material. 3. The fiber is short, thick, without gloss, the fiber length is 10-25mm. Cotton is native to India and Asia. Indian cotton is used for lower quality products in blends, in the carpet industry, etc. Cotton products are easy to wash and withstand high temperatures (white 95 and colored 60) and strong mechanical friction (washing machine). Cotton also withstands harsh detergents and some bleaches. Cottons can be trimmed in different ways, depending on the purpose of use (e.g. shrinking, smoothing, anti-stain treatment). From the point of view of handicraft yarns, the most important is mercerization. As a result of mercerization, the strength of the fabric increases, it acquires a silky shine and is better dyed. Cotton is comfortable and pleasant to wear, soft and resistant to abrasion and tearing, easy to clean. Cotton can be dyed well and practically does not fade. In direct sunlight, cotton becomes less durable and therefore requires protection. Comparing it with other plant fibers, it can be noted that the warming effect of cotton is higher than that of flax. Cotton is stronger than wool, although less durable than linen and silk. The product is easy to wash if pre-soaked. At the same time, however, cotton products shrink strongly and dry for a long time. For knitting, cotton is more often used in blended yarns with wool and acrylic, since cotton yarn itself is not elastic.

LINEN

Flax is most grown in Russia, but the best flax is produced in Belgium, Ireland and Holland. Flax belongs to bast fibers. The fiber is found in the stem of the plant between the bark and the woody core in the form of a thin bast layer. When processing flax, short bobs, thick tow and long, thin, shiny and clean flax fibers are separated. Linen products feel pleasant and refreshing on the body, since the surface of the fiber is smooth and hard, and it also has the ability to absorb moisture. Due to its gloss and ability to clean well, linen is the best choice for home textiles. The specific gravity of flax in the manufacture of yarn for needlework is small. Linen is used in fiber blends and as a hardener. Linen is an expensive fiber and therefore remains a luxury item. From flax, a very strong yarn is obtained, which does not shrink at high temperatures and is not very susceptible to shrinkage. Products made from it absorb moisture better and dry faster than, for example, cotton and woolen items. In hot weather, flax products are "cooled", in cool weather - they are heated. Linen can also be worn in winter. One would like to call linen fabric “good quality”: the service life of linen products can reach half a century. In addition, they are easy to wash and very hygienic. This is the most "breathable" fabric, especially if you do not touch it with an iron. Flax has only one drawback, and it can be considered as an advantage. The fact that linen is difficult to dye and whiten gives rise to a wonderful, natural range of soft, mostly gray-beige shades.

Artificial fibers

VISCOSE

Viscose is the very first artificial fiber obtained by man at the end of the 19th century, but to this day it retains its value. It is produced from natural material- cellulose, therefore of all chemical fibers this is the most "natural" one. By changing the thickness and nature of the fibers, you can get fabrics that are very similar to natural ones - like wool, cotton, silk and linen. The main qualities of viscose: pleasant to the touch, hygroscopic, breathable. The high intensity of the color allows you to create products in bright colors.

In yarn for knitting, viscose is included in the composition of a blended fiber, usually with cotton, as well as wool, with mohair. With the help of viscose, you can improve the properties of cotton: adding it to cotton yarn increases the rate of moisture absorption, which is low in cotton. It should also be noted that viscose does not accumulate static electricity. When washing, viscose products require particularly gentle care. They should not be twisted - wet viscose is not particularly durable. These items are best washed by hand using a mild detergent.

ACETATE

Acetate (and triacetate) fibers are artificial, that is, obtained as a result of special processing of natural raw materials, as opposed to synthetic ones obtained as a result of chemical synthesis. The basis of acetate and triacetate fibers is not pure cellulose, as is the case with viscose, but cellulose acetate. The fabric obtained from them is often called "rayon". Indeed, it is very similar to natural silk, has the same shiny surface. But unlike silk, it will simply dissolve in acetone. Acetate and triacetate fabrics hold their shape well, are resistant to microorganisms, elastic, and pleasant to the touch. Acetate is part of yarn with cotton, wool, mohair. It should also be noted that acetate has the ability to transmit ultraviolet rays. Acetate products dry quickly, but do not tolerate contact with an iron; they should be washed at a temperature not exceeding 30 degrees.

Synthetic fibers

The most important groups of synthetic fibers found in the textile industry are polyamides, polyesters, polypropenes and chloride fibers. The properties common to synthetic fibers are lightness, strength, and wear resistance. They can be curled under the influence of heat, squeezed and given the desired stable shape. Synthetic fibers absorb very little or no moisture, which is why products made from them are easy to wash and dry quickly. Due to their poor ability to absorb moisture, they are not as comfortable on the body as natural fibers.

POLYAMIDE

Polyamide is a whole group of various synthetic fibers, including nylon, nylon, silon. Polyamide fibers are obtained by processing various organic raw materials - oil, natural gas, coal. The main properties of polyamide products: high dimensional stability and strength, low lightfastness, high electrification. Polyamide fabrics were one of the first synthetic fabrics to hit the market; popular name For a long time "synthetics" belonged exclusively to them.

POLYESTER

Polyester is a synthetic polyester fiber with a special variety. It has a very useful property to fix the shape well when heated. It is used in the creation of clothes where it is necessary to "keep" folds - for example, pleated skirts. However, it should be borne in mind that when the fabric overheats above 40 degrees (for example, in a washing machine) unnecessary "wrinkled" folds may form on it, which will not be easy to get rid of. Polyester is highly resistant to light, resists stains well, and is not affected by moths and microbes. Differs in purity and durability of paints, and it will last for several years. The disadvantages of polyester products include a fairly high hygroscopicity.

Polyester is used in various combinations to add strength to finished products and provide an anti-static effect. The most popular blend of polyester and cotton, however, due to its softness and fast drying properties, polyester is added to both wool and rayon.

ACRYLIC

Acrylic belongs to the group of polyacrylonitrile fibers; on the market acrylic is also known under the names "nitron", "orlon". "PAN-fiber" and "prelana". Raw materials for acrylic production are extracted from natural gas. The main properties of acrylic: strength, thermoplasticity, lightfastness. Mixes with an acrylic content of 30% or more are ideal for knitting on knitting machines. Acrylic, which is often called "artificial wool", in its qualities is not only close to natural wool - it also has a number of unique properties. Acrylic fibers are well dyed, which allows you to get yarn of bright, saturated colors; products made of yarn with acrylic are less "felled", they are comfortable to wear, they are comfortable and warm. In knitting yarn, acrylic is most often used in a mixture with wool or mohair; the last mix allows for fluffy yet shape-resistant products.

NYLON

Nylon is a synthetic fiber from the group of polyamides, which has properties similar to other polyamides. Nylon was developed at Du Pont in 1935, in the process of searching for a material close to silk in quality. And in 1939, at the World's Fair in New York, the name of this fiber appeared - "NYIon", after the first letters of the name New-York. Over the decades since then, nylon has found widespread use in various fields, in particular, in electrical engineering (due to its electrical insulating properties). Nylon threads are used in various yarns to improve their consumer qualities. The advantages and disadvantages of products with a high nylon content are practically the same as those of other polyamide fabrics.

LYCRA

Lycra (in Europe "elastane", in the USA and Canada - "spandex") is a highly elastic synthetic fiber developed by DuPont. Always used in combination with other fibers - natural or artificial. To change the properties of the fabric, two percent of lycra is enough. Lycra fiber is matte (white), translucent and transparent. The main properties of lycra include high elongation (6-8 times), and upon termination of the load, the fiber returns to its original state. Lycra is breathable and washable well. Lycra gives the product specific qualities, in particular - it provides freedom of movement and retains its shape, as well as prevents the formation of folds.

CAPRON

Capron is a synthetic fiber belonging to the group of polyamide fibers. Differs in strength, elasticity, wear resistance. Like other synthetic fibers, nylon is resistant to microorganisms, but at the same time it has low lightfastness and is electrified. The most valuable properties of nylon, like other polyamide threads, are its high strength and dimensional stability. In the composition with cotton or wool, we are accustomed to seeing "nylon" on the labels of those products, during the operation of which these properties are necessary - hosiery, sports jersey, swimwear. Nylon thread has also found its application in patterned weaving, lace, braid, twisted cords and other similar products. It should be noted that products with a high content of nylon have disadvantages common to all polyamides.

Lurex

Lurex belongs to the category of so-called "showy" fibers. The fashion for lurex periodically returns. The popular understanding of the term ("lurex" - "shiny or metallic thread"), in principle, is very close to the truth. Such fiber can be obtained from aluminum, copper, brass, nickel foil. Since this is a rather expensive technology, and the resulting fibers do not differ in strength, recently threads made from a chemical film coated with colored glue have been used. Thus, a variety of colors and durability are achieved. Lurex provides your products with a shine effect, the brightness of which can be varied. As part of the yarn, lurex is mixed with acrylic, viscose and other fibers.

Reductions in formulations

Classic or natural fabrics are divided into three categories according to the type of raw material from which they are made (woven), its origin. The three main ones are:

• vegetable, which are obtained by processing cotton, hemp, jute or flax;
• of animal origin, in which wool and silk are used;
• mineral tissue obtained from asbestos processing (spinous tissue).

Vegetable fabrics

All natural fabrics made from recycled plants are hypoallergenic and soft. They do not build up static electricity and are good at absorbing sweat. When washed, the material shrinks, and when worn, it wrinkles.

Cotton

The seeds of the cotton bush are covered with white fluffy fiber, which is used to make fine threads. In Russia, fabrics woven from such threads have been called cotton for two centuries.

The advantages and distinctive properties of the fabric fit into the list.

1. Thin fiber 5-60 mm long and about 20 microns thick consists of 5% fats and mineral impurities and 95% cellulose. This composition explains all the wonderful properties of the material made from cotton threads.
2. High hygroscopicity of the material. The fibers absorb moisture well, increasing in volume by 40%, while becoming stronger by 15%.
3. Fibers are tensile stronger than wool, almost equal in wear resistance to silk and slightly weaker than flax.
4. The strength of the fabric is halved after 900 hours of exposure to sunlight.
5. Also, the strength is halved with prolonged (more than 70 hours) constant heating to 150 ° C.
6. Good thermoplasticity. The fabric retains its shape after heat treatment, that is, it is well ironed.
7. Excellent thermal insulation of the fabric is provided by the dense structure of the fiber.
8. Cotton fiber is neutral to organic acids.
9. Rotting.

Not better material for a light summer dress, blouse, pastel linen.

Linen

For more than 5,000 years, man has been using this grain to make natural fabrics. After multi-stage complex processing, the fibers are separated from the stems, from which the threads are then twisted for the future linen material.

Properties and characteristics of the fabric.

1. Environmental friendliness of linen materials is ensured by 100% natural raw materials.
2. High thermal conductivity. It has been experimentally proven that the body of a person dressed in linen clothes does not undergo overheating and has its own temperature a couple of degrees lower than under other fabrics.
3. Linen absorbs water well.
4. Linen is less prone to contamination than other fabrics.
5. Does not contribute to the vital activity of fungi, bacteria and pathogenic microbes. Silica, which is part of the flax threads, turns the fabric into an excellent antiseptic.
6. Linen threads are used in surgery for suturing during operations, since they are completely absorbed and are not rejected by living tissue.
7. Linen retains its shape after heating. Easy to wrinkle and iron at high temperatures (200 ° C).
8. Has increased durability.

A light, lightweight suit made of natural linen fabric is the best indicator of a young man's wealth and well-being.

From hemp

Hemp is a medicinal plant. Her beneficial features persist even in threads that are made from the fibers (bast) of the plant:

• hypoallergen;
• antiseptic.

In addition, hemp fabric has properties such as increased strength and hygroscopicity. It protects the skin from UV rays by 95% without creating a greenhouse effect. Hemp fiber fabrics are strong and durable.

Animal tissue

Wool

Animal hair is the very first material used to make the first man's clothing. In our manufacture, the most consumable material is sheep's wool. However, all over the world, many other animals also contribute to the textile industry: goats, camels, rabbits, dogs, etc.

The composition of the hairline of mammals includes the protein keratin with a large amount of sulfur. This largely explains what properties woolen fabrics have. Here is not a complete list of them.

1. Wool is characterized by low thermal conductivity, which means high heat-shielding qualities.
2. Great elasticity. The fabric is slightly wrinkled due to the volumetric elastic lengthening of the fibers.
3. A cloth dampened with hot water can expand by 50%, then return to its original shape.
4. Good hygroscopicity.
5. Woolen fabric is afraid of exposure to chlorine and alkali.

Clothes made from this material are very popular. Suits, trousers, sweaters, wool coats are the most comfortable clothes for the Russian climate.

Silk

The finest thread from which the silkworm builds its cocoon, many thousands of years ago, became the raw material for the creation of silk fabric. 800-1000 m of thread (silk) with a thickness of about 32 microns is obtained from one cocoon!

Silk thread is one-quarter sericin and three-fourths fibroin. This composition provides the benefits and essential properties of silk.

1. Good hygroscopicity.
2. Chemical resistance - neutral to organic solvents.
3. Low light fastness - the strength of silk fabric decreases after 200 hours of exposure to sunlight.
4. Excellent hygienic properties of the fabric.

Silk is very beautiful, lightweight and shiny. It is impossible to imagine a woman's wardrobe without linen, blouses, dresses or scarves made of this material.

AC (Acetato, Acetate, Acetat, Acetate) - acetate fiber

Acetate (and triacetate) fibers are man-made.
Acetate and triacetate fabrics hold their shape well, are resistant to microorganisms, elastic, and pleasant to the touch. Acetate is part of yarn with cotton, wool, mohair. They are often used as additives to natural fibers to give the fabric elasticity.

AF , EA (Sonstige fasem, Another fiber, Autres fibers) - other fibers

Additional fibers, which are added to the main ones, with a percentage of less than 5%.

CA (Canapa, Hemp, Hant, Chanvre) - fiber from hemp, hemp

Hemp fiber - hemp fiber. In terms of hygroscopic, anti-electrostatic and high physical and mechanical properties, hemp is close to flax fiber. Characterized by strength and resistance to salt water. It is often used in a mixture with linen for household fabrics (sheets, towels, tablecloths, etc.).

Co (Cotone, Cotton, Baumwolle, Coton) - cotton

Cotton is a plant fiber and the most commonly used fiber. Cotton is the worst conductor of heat and therefore appears to be warmer than, for example, linen. Also has good property absorb moisture, which makes cotton products more pleasant to wear, they do not electrify, they are easy to dye and finish. Disadvantages - low wear resistance and a high percentage of shrinkage.

Cu (Cupro) - copper ammonia fiber

Copper-ammonia fiber is obtained from cotton fluff and refined wood pulp. In terms of physical and mechanical properties, copper-ammonia fibers are superior to viscose. The fiber is even, smooth, with a soft pleasant shine, well dyed, in a dry state it is stronger than viscose, more resilient and elastic. Copper-ammonia fiber is used in the production of knitwear, and mixed with wool - for the manufacture of fabrics and carpets.

EL (Comma, Bubber, Elastodiene, Elastan, Elasthanne) - elastane

Elastane is a synthetic polyurethane fiber, its main property is extensibility. Elastane is also a strong, fairly thin and wear-resistant fiber. Elastane is used as a supplement to base fabrics. Due to the extensibility, things with a small percentage of elastane fit better on the figure, they are tight, but after stretching they easily return to their original shape. Elastane is quite resistant to various kinds of external influences, and things with its content can last a very long time; when this fiber is added, things practically do not wrinkle.

HA (Pelo, Hair, Haar, Poil) - bristles, hair thread, pile

HL (Limisto, Union Linen, Halbleinen, Metis) - flax with admixtures, semi-linen fiber

Flaxseed fiber with added other fibers (usually less than 5%).

Li (Lino, Linen-Flax, Flachs, Linen, Lin) - linen

Flax is the world's oldest plant fiber. Linen is highly hygroscopic, quickly absorbs moisture and dries just as quickly. In winter, linen clothes keep you warm, and in summer they help you to survive the heat more easily. Linen is several times stronger than cotton. Linen clothes will last a long time. Linen wrinkles, but not as much as cotton. To avoid this, cotton, viscose or wool fibers are added to it. It does not lose its softness from frequent washings.

Ly (Laychra, Laycra) - lycra

Lycra (in Europe "elastane", in the USA and Canada - "spandex") is a highly elastic synthetic fiber developed by DuPont. Gives the fabric specific properties - provides freedom of movement and retains its shape, as well as prevents the formation of folds. Washes easily and dries quickly. Only 2% lycra is enough to change the properties of the fabric. Lycra stretches 6-8 times and easily returns to its original state.

Ma (Modacrilice, Modacrylin, Modacryl) - modified acrylic

Modacryl is a fiber of chemical origin, modified acrylic fiber from polyacrylic (with a minimum content of 85%) and other vinyl components.

Md (Modal, Moadal) - modified viscose fiber

Modal is a cellulose fiber obtained from wood. It is stronger than viscose. Incredibly light - 10 thousand meters of this fiber weighs only 1 gram. Gives a soft shine to fabrics, makes them soft and pleasant. Increases the wear resistance of the fabric, does not fade, does not fade and does not shrink during washing, and also does not lose all its properties after repeated washings. Incredibly comfortable to wear: pleasantly cool and non-irritating. Disadvantages - slightly inferior in elasticity to viscose and quite expensive.

Ny (Naylon, Polyamide) - nylon, polyamide

Polyamide is the general name for a whole group of various synthetic fibers, including nylon, nylon, silon, and perlon. This is the first "synthetics" on the fabric market. The main properties of products made of polyamides: sufficient rigidity, surface smoothness, lightness, high dimensional stability and strength, low light fastness, low hygroscopicity, high wear resistance. Does not wrinkle and dries quickly.

Me ( Metall, Metal, Meta) - metallized thread

Metallized thread is a thread made of very thin metal foil, cut into narrow strips and covered with the finest plastic film or metal-sprayed polyester fiber. Colored in different colours... Mixes with other fibers for strength or decorative effect.

PA (Acrilica, Polyacrylic, Polyacryl, Acrylique, Acrylic) - acrylic

Acrylic is a high quality synthetic fiber. Acrylic is similar in many characteristics and appearance to wool, for which it received the name "artificial wool". Combines well with wool. It is a warm, soft, lightweight, gentle and pliable moth-resistant material. Acrylic keeps its shape, perfectly tolerates the effects of dry cleaning and various weather conditions. It practically does not fade, does not discolor and stains well. Disadvantages - the formation of pellets, low air permeability.

PL (Poliestere, Polyester) - polyester, polyester fiber

Polyester is a synthetic polyester fiber. It is good to fix the shape when heated, which is very often used when creating folds. Polyester is used in various combinations to add durability and an anti-static effect to the garment. The most popular blend of polyester and cotton, however, due to its softness and fast drying properties, polyester is added to both wool and rayon.

PE (Polietilen, Polyethylene, Polietileno) - polyethylene fiber

Polyethylene is a polymer, chemical fiber.

PP (Polipropilene) - polypropylene fiber

Polypropylene fiber is a synthetic fiber that is made from polypropylene. Elastic, resistant to bending, has good thermal insulation properties, resistant to chemicals. Polypropylene is used for the manufacture of ropes, nets, carpets, blankets, fabrics for outerwear, knitwear.

PU (Poliuretanica, Polyurethane) - polyurethane fiber

Polyurethane fiber - synthetic origin, blends perfectly with other fibers, giving them strength.

RA (Ramie) - nettle fiber (ramie)

Rami is a high quality natural thread similar to linen, smooth with a beautiful matte effect. Obtained from Chinese nettle. Ramie fiber has good strength and does not rot. The shine of ramie fiber resembles silk, it is easily dyed without loss of silkiness, therefore it can be used in expensive fabrics. Often used in denim as an additive.

Rs (Rubber artificial) - rubber,artificial rubber

Just like natural rubber is made from latex, artificial rubber is made from synthetic latex.

SE (Seta, Silk, Seide, Soie) - silk

Natural silk is one of the noblest and most expensive materials. The main property of silk is thermoregulation, i.e. ability to adjust and maintain temperature human body... It can provide good breathability in summer and keep you warm in winter. Silk evaporates moisture very quickly and dries, requires careful handling. Silk sheds a lot during washing, so it should only be washed by hand at 30 degrees and with a soft special means... A silk item must be rinsed well first in warm, then in cold water. Silk must not be rubbed, squeezed, twisted or dried in a dryer. Wet items are carefully wrapped in a cloth, lightly squeezed out of the water and hung or laid out in a horizontal position. Iron on a certain mode.

TA (Triacetato, Triacetate) - triacetate

Received from primary acetate by chemical action. Differs in low hygroscopicity, easy to stain. Does not require ironing, retains creases well even after washing. They are mainly used for the manufacture of fabrics for ties, bedspreads, lace, pleated skirts.

VI (Viscosa, Viscose) - viscose

Viscose is a concentrated solution of natural compounds - hydrated cellulose fibers. Viscose fiber is close to cotton. The fiber has a loose structure, resembles silk in appearance, has excellent hygienic properties - it is breathable, has increased hygroscopicity, great strength, and is well ironed. The disadvantage is a sharp shine, strong shrinkage during washing, loss of strength in a wet state (it is not recommended to twist and squeeze strongly).

RVC (Polyvinylchloride) - polyvinyl chloride, polyvinyl chloride

Polyvinyl chloride is a polymer of vinyl chloride. Differs in resistance to chemicals... Does not burn in air, but has low frost resistance down to -15 ° C. Withstands heating up to +65 ° C. PVC is also often used in clothing and accessories to create a skin-like material that is smooth and shiny.

PVCF (Polyvinylchloride fiber) - polyvinylchloride fiber

Polyvinyl chloride fiber is a fiber of synthetic origin, which is made from solutions of polyvinyl chloride. Resistant to many chemicals, flame retardant. Overalls, non-combustible drapery fabrics, and thermal insulation materials are often made.

WA (Angora) - wool fiber from angora goat

Angora is a very soft and fluffy woolen fabric with a characteristic delicate pile. In its pure form, angora is practically not used - it is expensive, and the fibers in the yarn, due to their softness and smoothness, do not hold well, the yarn sheds, but in a mixture with wool or acrylic, which are added to increase strength, it is simply ideal.

WO (Lana, Wool, Woole, Lane, Laine, Wolle) - wool

Wool is a textile fabric that is mainly produced from sheep's wool. Woolen fabrics have very high heat-shielding properties. To ensure high wear resistance of the fabric, synthetic fibers are often added to woolen fibers. Control over the quality of wool yarn, fabric and products made from them is carried out by the International Wool Secretariat. After passing this control, the wool manufacturer has the right to put the Pure wool or Woolmark mark on his products - a certificate of quality wool.

Wk (Camello, Camel, Kamel, Chamean) - camel hair

The main advantage of camel wool is lightness. It is about 2 times lighter than a sheep's. Products made from such wool optimally maintain body temperature, warming in the cold and protecting against overheating in the heat. High hygroscopicity allows moisture to be wicked away from the body, leaving the body dry. Due to the high antistatic properties, which of all types of wool is characteristic only of camel wool, the products do not get dirty for a long time, and are easy to maintain and maintain.

WL (Lama, Liama) - wool fiber from llama

Llama wool is a protein fiber and does not contain natural oils and lanolin. Llama wool is light and soft, retains heat well. It does not cause allergic reactions and is capable of repelling water. Llama wool has an exceptional variety of natural shades, from white, ash pink, light brown, gray and silver to dark brown and black. White wool is dyed using natural dyes. Cashmere is the finest down (undercoat) of a highland cashmere goat that lives in the region of Tibet and in the province of Kashmir between India and Pakistan. Cashmere goats are also bred in Australia, New Zealand and Scotland, which are obtained by combing them. Cashmere is an exquisite, expensive material, which is deservedly called a "wool diamond" for its lightness, tenderness and at the same time warm properties.

WP (Alpaca, Alpaka) - alpaca wool

Alpaca is a species of llama. Alpaca wool has extraordinary properties: soft, light, with a silky sheen, which lasts the entire service life of the product, very warm, with good thermoregulatory properties, strong. Has a wide range of natural colors - 22 shades.

WY (Yach, Yak, Yack) - yak wool

Yak wool has a unique ability to keep warm, hygroscopic, soft and lightweight. The wool has good adhesion, excellent stretch and wrinkle resistance. Like camel hair, the down of the Tibetan yak cannot be dyed, it is durable and unpretentious when worn.